 | Albino Snake taught by [Albino Snake] rare — binds when used |
 | Ammen Vale Lashling taught by [Ammen Vale Lashling] Sold for 40 Champion's Seals by Irisee - Icecrown rare — binds when used |
 | Ancona Chicken taught by [Ancona Chicken] Sold for 1  by Magus Tirth - Thousand Needlescommon — binds when used |
 | Argent Gruntling taught by [Argent Gruntling] Quest reward: [80]A Champion Rises rare — binds when picked up |
 | Argent Squire taught by [Argent Squire] Quest reward: [80]A Champion Rises rare — binds when picked up |
 | Azure Whelpling taught by [Azure Whelpling] Dropped by [50-51+]Blue Dragonspawn, [51-52+]Draconic Mageweaver, [52-53+]Blue Scalebane, [53-54+]Draconic Magelord - Azshara uncommon — binds when used |
 | Baby Blizzard Bear taught by [Baby Blizzard Bear] Feat: Logged in during WoW's 4th Anniversary common — binds to account |
 | Bananas taught by [Banana Charm] Promotional pet: World of Warcraft Trading Card Game (TCG) extremely rare — binds when picked up |
 | Black Kingsnake taught by [Black Kingsnake] Sold for 50  by Xan'tish - Orgrimmarcommon — binds when used |
 | Black Tabby Cat taught by [Cat Carrier (Black Tabby)] Dropped by [21r]Dalaran Spellscribe - Silverpine Forest, [31-35]Dalaran Shield Guard, Dalaran Theurgist, and Dalaran Summoner - Alterac Mountains uncommon — binds when used |
 | Blue Clockwork Rocket Bot taught by [Blue Clockwork Rocket Bot] common — binds when picked up |
 | Blue Dragonhawk Hatchling taught by [Blue Dragonhawk Hatchling] Sold for 10 by Dealer Rashaad - Netherstormcommon — binds when used |
 | Blue Moth taught by [Blue Moth Egg] Sold for 50 by Sixx - The Exodarcommon — binds when used |
 | Bombay Cat taught by [Cat Carrier (Bombay)] Sold for 40 by Donni Anthania - Elwynn Forestcommon — binds when used |
 | Brown Prairie Dog taught by [Prairie Dog Whistle] Sold for 50 by Halpa - Thunder Bluffcommon — binds when used |
 | Brown Rabbit taught by [Brown Rabbit Crate] Sold for 10 by Dealer Rashaad - Netherstormcommon — binds when used |
 | Brown Snake taught by [Brown Snake] Sold for 50 by Xan'tish - Orgrimmarcommon — binds when used |
 | Calico Cat taught by [Cat Carrier (Calico)] rare — binds when used |
 | Chuck taught by [Chuck's Bucket] Dropped by [Bag of Fishing Treasures] (via Outland daily fishing quest) rare — binds when picked up |
 | Clockwork Rocket Bot taught by [Clockwork Rocket Bot] Dropped by [Winter Veil Present] (only dropped in 2007) uncommon — binds when picked up |
 | Cobra Hatchling taught by [Cobra Hatchling] Dropped by [Cracked Egg] (spawned from [Mysterious Egg] after 7 days) common — binds when used |
 | Cockatiel taught by [Parrot Cage (Cockatiel)] Sold for 40 by Narkk - Stranglethorn Valecommon — binds when used |
 | Cockroach taught by [Cockroach] common — binds when used |
 | Core Hound Pup taught by [Core Hound Pup]  Promotional pet: Authenticator Account Linkrare — binds when picked up |
 | Cornish Rex Cat taught by [Cat Carrier (Cornish Rex)] Sold for 40 by Donni Anthania - Elwynn Forestcommon — binds when used |
 | Crimson Snake taught by [Crimson Snake] common — binds when used |
 | Crimson Whelpling taught by [Tiny Crimson Whelpling] rare — binds when used |
 | Curious Oracle Hatchling taught by [Curious Oracle Hatchling] Quest reward: [75]Back To The Orphanage rare — binds when picked up |
 | Curious Wolvar Pup taught by [Curious Wolvar Pup] Quest reward: [75]Back to the Orphanage very rare — binds when picked up |
 | Dark Whelpling taught by [Dark Whelpling] Dropped by [41-43]Scalding Whelp - Badlands, [42-43]Searing Whelp - Dustwallow Marsh rare — binds when used |
 | Darting Hatchling taught by [Darting Hatchling] Dropped by [Dart's Nest] (found in Dustwallow Marsh) rare — binds when used |
 | Deviate Hatchling taught by [Deviate Hatchling] Dropped by [17-19+]Deviate Guardian, Deviate Ravager - Wailing Caverns rare — binds when used |
 | Disgusting Oozeling taught by [Disgusting Oozeling] Dropped by [Oozing Bag] (via various 50-57 ooze & slime mobs) rare — binds when used |
 | Dragon Kite taught by [Dragon Kite] Promotional pet: World of Warcraft Trading Card Game (TCG) ultra-rare — binds when picked up |
 | Dun Morogh Cub taught by [Dun Morogh Cub] Sold for 40 Champion's Seals by Derrick Brindlebeard - Icecrown rare — binds when used |
 | Durotar Scorpion taught by [Durotar Scorpion] Sold for 40 Champion's Seals by Freka Bloodaxe - Icecrown rare — binds when used |
 | Egbert taught by [Egbert's Egg] Quest reward: [65]Back to the Orphanage uncommon — binds when picked up |
 | Elwynn Lamb taught by [Elwynn Lamb] Sold for 40 Champion's Seals by Corporal Arthur Flew - Icecrown rare — binds when used |
 | Emerald Whelpling taught by [Tiny Emerald Whelpling] Dropped by [35-36]Adolescent Whelp, [35-36]Dreaming Whelp - Swamp of Sorrows rare — binds when used |
 | Enchanted Broom taught by [Enchanted Broom] Sold for 40 Champion's Seals by Trellis Morningsun - Icecrown rare — binds when used |
 | Essence of Competition taught by [Competitor's Souvenir] Feat: Character-specific milestones (in-game) ultra-rare — binds when picked up |
 | Ethereal Soul-Trader taught by [Soul-Trader Beacon] Promotional pet: World of Warcraft Trading Card Game (TCG) ultra-rare — binds when picked up |
 | Father Winter's Helper taught by [Green Helper Box] Dropped by [Gaily Wrapped Present] (found under Winter Veil tree) common — binds when used |
 | Firefly taught by [Captured Firefly] Dropped by [62]Bogflare Needler - Zangarmarsh rare — binds when used |
 | Frosty taught by [Frosty's Collar] Promotional pet: Wrath of the Lich King Collector's Edition rare — binds to account |
 | Ghostly Skull taught by [Ghostly Skull] Sold for 40 by Darahir - Dalarancommon — binds when picked up |
 | Giant Sewer Rat taught by [Giant Sewer Rat] Dropped by Fishing Loot (obtained through 1+ fishing in Dalaran Underbelly) uncommon — binds when picked up |
 | Golden Dragonhawk Hatchling taught by [Golden Dragonhawk Hatchling] Sold for 50 by Jilanne - Eversong Woodscommon — binds when used |
 | Great Horned Owl taught by [Great Horned Owl] Sold for 50 by Shylenai - Darnassuscommon — binds when used |
Wednesday, April 7, 2010
Index of Vanity Pets
Sunday, March 7, 2010
RABBITS AND CHILDREN
Your child has been asking for a pet. You consider getting him a dog or a cat but think about how much of a commitment having a family pet can be. Then, you think about getting a rabbit. Why not? A rabbit is a perfect child's pet. They are cute, cuddly, spend most of the time in a cage and don't seem to require much care, right?
Dispelling the Myths
Rabbits are docile and cuddly.Rabbits are often portrayed by the media and in children's books as being cuddly and docile. Most people are disappointed to find that many times rabbits just simply do not live up this stereotype. Most rabbits do not like to be carried around, and because of their delicate skeletal structure, may be easily injured trying to escape from a child's arms. This may result in an injury to the child, as well as to the rabbit.
Rabbits are low maintenance pets.Rabbits have needs that are similar to other house pets. They require sufficient mental stimulation and physical exercise in a bunny-proofed area each day. Their cages/litter boxes need to be cleaned often to prevent odour. When rabbits are ill, they require care from a qualified veterinarian. They also have very specific dietary requirements.
Having a pet teaches a child responsibility.Many parents say they want to get a pet for their child to teach the child to be responsible. While this sounds good in theory, it's more likely that the child will end up losing interest in the pet. The pet is then either neglected or given away. In either case, the child doesn't learn responsibility. Even worse, the child will sometimes learn that life is disposable and that if he just waits long enough, someone else will relieve him of his "responsibility".
So, does this mean that you shouldn't get a rabbit for your child? No, not necessarily, but as the adult, it is important to realize that you will be the primary care taker of the rabbit. It is, therefore, essential that you understand what rabbits are like and what proper care entails.
So, What is a Rabbit Really Like?The important thing to remember when describing what rabbits are really like is that each rabbit has a unique personality and you can't really make generalizations by breed. However, that said most rabbits exhibit one or more of the following traits:
Rabbits are social animals. Most really enjoy the company of either another rabbit (or other animal such as dog or cat) or of a human.
Rabbits are curious. Want to get a rabbit's attention? Simply sit on the floor in their area, read a book and ignore them. Most can't resist approaching.
Rabbits need sufficient physical exercise and mental stimulation each day. For bunny-proofing tips and suggestions for suitable toys, see the behaviour section of this web site.
Rabbits are fastidious groomers and are easily litter trained. If you keep your rabbit's cage/area clean, they won't have an odour.
Rabbits love routine. Changes to feeding and exercise schedules are stressful and may lead to illness or an ill-behaved rabbit. If a schedule must be changed, introduce changes gradually.
Other Things to Consider Before Getting a RabbitIn addition to doing research, and knowing what having a rabbit entails, there are other things you must consider, when deciding if a rabbit is right for you and your child.
Do any of your family members have allergies? If so, it is important to make sure that they won't be allergic to the rabbit before bringing him home. Note: Many people are allergic to hay (a staple in your rabbit's diet) and NOT the rabbit itself.
Consider your child's personality. If your child is calm and cooperative, a rabbit may be an appropriate addition to your family. On the other hand, if your child is loud, tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequently needs to be reminded of rules, then a rabbit probably isn't a good choice.
Consider your child's age. Rabbits are rarely good pets for very young children (less than 7 years old). Very young children do not have the coordination to interact with a rabbit and may accidentally hurt it. However, if you are willing to supervise their interaction, then a rabbit may be appropriate.
Does your family have time for a rabbit? Are you and your child prepared to make time for the rabbit, which involves cleaning, feeding and socializing? This is a committment that can last 6 to 10 years.
Tips for Successful Interaction Between Rabbits and ChildrenNow that you've considered the rabbit's needs and have determined that your child would interact well with a rabbit, here are some tips that may help you maintain a happy household.
Show your child how to pet the bunny. Guide your child's hand over the rabbit's head, ears, and upper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold his hand flat or use the back of his hand. Do this frequently, but stop if the rabbit seems bothered by it. Always supervise your child's interactions with the rabbit.
Rabbits need to feel secure when being handled. If they do not, they will struggle and kick in an effort to escape. Children simply aren't physically strong enough to be capable of making the rabbit feel secure. For this reason, larger bunnies often make better companions for children than smaller breeds. They are less tempted to pick the rabbit up.
Children like to be able to pick up their toys and pets and carry them around. Always teach your child to interact with the rabbit at ground level. A rabbit feels more secure at ground level. Explain to the child that you (or another adult) will be the one who picks up the bunny for grooming, etc.
Make interactions with the rabbit a positive experience for the child. Explain to him that it is his special job to not scare the rabbit, not pick the rabbit up, etc. Avoid constantly using negative words like 'Don't' and 'Stop'.
Teach your child to leave the rabbit alone when he hops away or goes into his cage. It is helpful to interpret the rabbit's body language for the child to help him understand. For example, tell the child that 'I think the bunny wants to eat (or nap) now. Let's leave him alone for a bit'.
Discourage your child from chasing a rabbit who has had enough, poking at him through the cage or banging on his cage. This can be done by explaining: "Chasing the rabbit will make him scared of you." Or "Banging on his house scares him." It is important that you learn how to interpret rabbit behavior/language so you can explain the rabbit's feelings about your child's actions. Sometimes, it is also helpful to compare the bunny's feelings to a feeling familiar to your child. For example, tell the child that 'Banging on the rabbit's house scares him. You know how you are scared sometimes of loud noises?'.
Teach the child that the litterbox and the rabbit's droppings are "dirt" and always use a broom and dustpan to sweep up the rabbit's droppings when the child is around. A litter box with a grate over top or a wire bottomed cage works well.
Create a 'safe zone', where the rabbit can go for quiet and to escape. Use baby gates in doorways and or consider turning the cage so the door faces the wall with enough room for rabbit but not the child.
Dispelling the Myths
Rabbits are docile and cuddly.Rabbits are often portrayed by the media and in children's books as being cuddly and docile. Most people are disappointed to find that many times rabbits just simply do not live up this stereotype. Most rabbits do not like to be carried around, and because of their delicate skeletal structure, may be easily injured trying to escape from a child's arms. This may result in an injury to the child, as well as to the rabbit.
Rabbits are low maintenance pets.Rabbits have needs that are similar to other house pets. They require sufficient mental stimulation and physical exercise in a bunny-proofed area each day. Their cages/litter boxes need to be cleaned often to prevent odour. When rabbits are ill, they require care from a qualified veterinarian. They also have very specific dietary requirements.
Having a pet teaches a child responsibility.Many parents say they want to get a pet for their child to teach the child to be responsible. While this sounds good in theory, it's more likely that the child will end up losing interest in the pet. The pet is then either neglected or given away. In either case, the child doesn't learn responsibility. Even worse, the child will sometimes learn that life is disposable and that if he just waits long enough, someone else will relieve him of his "responsibility".
So, does this mean that you shouldn't get a rabbit for your child? No, not necessarily, but as the adult, it is important to realize that you will be the primary care taker of the rabbit. It is, therefore, essential that you understand what rabbits are like and what proper care entails.
So, What is a Rabbit Really Like?The important thing to remember when describing what rabbits are really like is that each rabbit has a unique personality and you can't really make generalizations by breed. However, that said most rabbits exhibit one or more of the following traits:
Rabbits are social animals. Most really enjoy the company of either another rabbit (or other animal such as dog or cat) or of a human.
Rabbits are curious. Want to get a rabbit's attention? Simply sit on the floor in their area, read a book and ignore them. Most can't resist approaching.
Rabbits need sufficient physical exercise and mental stimulation each day. For bunny-proofing tips and suggestions for suitable toys, see the behaviour section of this web site.
Rabbits are fastidious groomers and are easily litter trained. If you keep your rabbit's cage/area clean, they won't have an odour.
Rabbits love routine. Changes to feeding and exercise schedules are stressful and may lead to illness or an ill-behaved rabbit. If a schedule must be changed, introduce changes gradually.
Other Things to Consider Before Getting a RabbitIn addition to doing research, and knowing what having a rabbit entails, there are other things you must consider, when deciding if a rabbit is right for you and your child.
Do any of your family members have allergies? If so, it is important to make sure that they won't be allergic to the rabbit before bringing him home. Note: Many people are allergic to hay (a staple in your rabbit's diet) and NOT the rabbit itself.
Consider your child's personality. If your child is calm and cooperative, a rabbit may be an appropriate addition to your family. On the other hand, if your child is loud, tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequently needs to be reminded of rules, then a rabbit probably isn't a good choice.
Consider your child's age. Rabbits are rarely good pets for very young children (less than 7 years old). Very young children do not have the coordination to interact with a rabbit and may accidentally hurt it. However, if you are willing to supervise their interaction, then a rabbit may be appropriate.
Does your family have time for a rabbit? Are you and your child prepared to make time for the rabbit, which involves cleaning, feeding and socializing? This is a committment that can last 6 to 10 years.
Tips for Successful Interaction Between Rabbits and ChildrenNow that you've considered the rabbit's needs and have determined that your child would interact well with a rabbit, here are some tips that may help you maintain a happy household.
Show your child how to pet the bunny. Guide your child's hand over the rabbit's head, ears, and upper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold his hand flat or use the back of his hand. Do this frequently, but stop if the rabbit seems bothered by it. Always supervise your child's interactions with the rabbit.
Rabbits need to feel secure when being handled. If they do not, they will struggle and kick in an effort to escape. Children simply aren't physically strong enough to be capable of making the rabbit feel secure. For this reason, larger bunnies often make better companions for children than smaller breeds. They are less tempted to pick the rabbit up.
Children like to be able to pick up their toys and pets and carry them around. Always teach your child to interact with the rabbit at ground level. A rabbit feels more secure at ground level. Explain to the child that you (or another adult) will be the one who picks up the bunny for grooming, etc.
Make interactions with the rabbit a positive experience for the child. Explain to him that it is his special job to not scare the rabbit, not pick the rabbit up, etc. Avoid constantly using negative words like 'Don't' and 'Stop'.
Teach your child to leave the rabbit alone when he hops away or goes into his cage. It is helpful to interpret the rabbit's body language for the child to help him understand. For example, tell the child that 'I think the bunny wants to eat (or nap) now. Let's leave him alone for a bit'.
Discourage your child from chasing a rabbit who has had enough, poking at him through the cage or banging on his cage. This can be done by explaining: "Chasing the rabbit will make him scared of you." Or "Banging on his house scares him." It is important that you learn how to interpret rabbit behavior/language so you can explain the rabbit's feelings about your child's actions. Sometimes, it is also helpful to compare the bunny's feelings to a feeling familiar to your child. For example, tell the child that 'Banging on the rabbit's house scares him. You know how you are scared sometimes of loud noises?'.
Teach the child that the litterbox and the rabbit's droppings are "dirt" and always use a broom and dustpan to sweep up the rabbit's droppings when the child is around. A litter box with a grate over top or a wire bottomed cage works well.
Create a 'safe zone', where the rabbit can go for quiet and to escape. Use baby gates in doorways and or consider turning the cage so the door faces the wall with enough room for rabbit but not the child.
Rabbits
Is a rabbit for me?
Are you thinking of keeping a pet rabbit? Or maybe you already have one. Either way you are one of the millions of pet lovers who think of rabbits as ideal pets. This is not surprising as they are endearing, affectionate animals that easily sway us with their charm. But just like any other pet, keeping a rabbit is a big commitment.
Bunny Basics Although they are different shapes, sizes and colours, pet rabbits are closely related to their wild cousins. Their basic nature and needs are the same as a wild rabbit.
* Rabbits are active!
They need plenty of space, a spacious run outdoors or freedom to run around the house for several hours every day.
* Rabbits are sociable!
Wild rabbits live in colonies, never on their own. Your pet will need plenty of company either from you, a bunny companion or preferably both.
Rabbits are naturally shy, quiet animals who hate being held above ground level. Gaining the trust of a rabbit takes time and effort.
A good home for a rabbit?
You'll need to keep these basic facts about rabbit nature in mind when deciding how best to keep your pet. Keeping a rabbit alone in a hutch doesn't meet many of the fundamental needs of the species and results in a bored and distressed pet. As a caring owner you'll need to look at alternatives.
Outdoors
* Two or more rabbits(provided they are neutered to stop fighting and breeding) living in a permanent enclosure in the garden with suitable shelter.
* Two rabbits sharing a hutch at night with daily access to a large exercise run (or garden, if you don't mind your plants being nibbled!) Remember, gardens and runs need to be secure against foxes, cats and dogs! Both these options offer a good quality of life. You would enjoy watching your rabbits behave in a natural way, but you would find that they won't become particularly tame.
Indoors
* If you want a closer relationship with your bunny then why not keep him as a houserabbit? In recent years an increasing number of people have moved away from the idea of keeping a rabbit in a hutch outside. Instead they are keeping their rabbits in their homes. Before considering keeping a house rabbit it is essential that you get as much information as possible. Rabbits are easily house trained, once they are neutered. It is better to start with an indoor cage, place a litter box in the corner of it and as soon as your rabbit uses the box consistently, you can give him more freedom. It is natural for rabbits to chew on curtains, furniture, rugs and most importantly electrical wires. Therefore all wires must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. They can be encased in vinyl tubing by splitting the tube lengthways and pushing the wire inside. Give your rabbit plenty of attention, something safe to chew on and toys, so they are distracted from chewing furnishings
* Two rabbits will be very content if you lead a busy lifestyle with less time to devote to them. Many houserabbits will watch TV from the sofa, flop out in front of the fire and run to greet their owners when they come in from work! However, houserabbits are not suitable pets for everyone. Just like cats and dogs, they can be demanding and destructive, especially as youngsters. Even after thorough training and "bunnyproofing" some wear and tear on the furnishings as well as a bit of mess such as pet hair is inevitable.
* "For better, for worse" Your rabbit will be completely dependent on you. That means arranging holiday care if you want to go away. He will need affection and attention every day. Houserabbits are a bit like toddlers that never grow up. Can you cope?
* "In sickness and in health" Your rabbit will need to be neutered and to have annual vaccinations against VHD and Myxomatosis. Veterinary fees for a rabbit are very similar to those for a cat, so pet health insurancecover is strongly recommended in case of serious health problems.
* "Till death us do part" The average life span of a rabbit is 7-10 years. You are taking on your pet for around a decade. If the rabbit is for the children� they may be gone before the bunny! Rabbits and children Rabbits can make good family pets if parents respect the needs of the rabbit and the limitations of the children. Adults need to accept all the responsibility of caring for the rabbit. Please do not buy a rabbit solely as a child's pet.
* Small children with rabbits need supervision.
* Rabbits can scratch and bite if harassed. They do not like to be picked up and can easily injure their backs if they fall or are dropped.
* Children may not have the patience necessary to establish a relationship with a rabbit It's a good idea to choose a large breed of rabbit if you have young children as they are generally quieter, sturdier and too large to be picked up.
Where to get a rabbit
* Why not adopt a rescue bunny? Britain is flooded with unwanted pet rabbits awaiting new homes in rescue centres and if you adopt an adult bunny you can be sure of its personality.
* Many pet shops sell young rabbits but if you want a particular breed or colour, locate a reputable breeder via the Pet Plan Rabbit List who will be able to give you advice about your rabbit and show you adult examples of the breed. Wherever you get your rabbit you can be sure that with care, love and respect your rabbit will become a faithful and entertaining friend and member of your family.
Are you thinking of keeping a pet rabbit? Or maybe you already have one. Either way you are one of the millions of pet lovers who think of rabbits as ideal pets. This is not surprising as they are endearing, affectionate animals that easily sway us with their charm. But just like any other pet, keeping a rabbit is a big commitment.
Bunny Basics Although they are different shapes, sizes and colours, pet rabbits are closely related to their wild cousins. Their basic nature and needs are the same as a wild rabbit.
* Rabbits are active!
They need plenty of space, a spacious run outdoors or freedom to run around the house for several hours every day.
* Rabbits are sociable!
Wild rabbits live in colonies, never on their own. Your pet will need plenty of company either from you, a bunny companion or preferably both.
Rabbits are naturally shy, quiet animals who hate being held above ground level. Gaining the trust of a rabbit takes time and effort.
A good home for a rabbit?
You'll need to keep these basic facts about rabbit nature in mind when deciding how best to keep your pet. Keeping a rabbit alone in a hutch doesn't meet many of the fundamental needs of the species and results in a bored and distressed pet. As a caring owner you'll need to look at alternatives.
Outdoors
* Two or more rabbits(provided they are neutered to stop fighting and breeding) living in a permanent enclosure in the garden with suitable shelter.
* Two rabbits sharing a hutch at night with daily access to a large exercise run (or garden, if you don't mind your plants being nibbled!) Remember, gardens and runs need to be secure against foxes, cats and dogs! Both these options offer a good quality of life. You would enjoy watching your rabbits behave in a natural way, but you would find that they won't become particularly tame.
Indoors
* If you want a closer relationship with your bunny then why not keep him as a houserabbit? In recent years an increasing number of people have moved away from the idea of keeping a rabbit in a hutch outside. Instead they are keeping their rabbits in their homes. Before considering keeping a house rabbit it is essential that you get as much information as possible. Rabbits are easily house trained, once they are neutered. It is better to start with an indoor cage, place a litter box in the corner of it and as soon as your rabbit uses the box consistently, you can give him more freedom. It is natural for rabbits to chew on curtains, furniture, rugs and most importantly electrical wires. Therefore all wires must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. They can be encased in vinyl tubing by splitting the tube lengthways and pushing the wire inside. Give your rabbit plenty of attention, something safe to chew on and toys, so they are distracted from chewing furnishings
* Two rabbits will be very content if you lead a busy lifestyle with less time to devote to them. Many houserabbits will watch TV from the sofa, flop out in front of the fire and run to greet their owners when they come in from work! However, houserabbits are not suitable pets for everyone. Just like cats and dogs, they can be demanding and destructive, especially as youngsters. Even after thorough training and "bunnyproofing" some wear and tear on the furnishings as well as a bit of mess such as pet hair is inevitable.
* "For better, for worse" Your rabbit will be completely dependent on you. That means arranging holiday care if you want to go away. He will need affection and attention every day. Houserabbits are a bit like toddlers that never grow up. Can you cope?
* "In sickness and in health" Your rabbit will need to be neutered and to have annual vaccinations against VHD and Myxomatosis. Veterinary fees for a rabbit are very similar to those for a cat, so pet health insurancecover is strongly recommended in case of serious health problems.
* "Till death us do part" The average life span of a rabbit is 7-10 years. You are taking on your pet for around a decade. If the rabbit is for the children� they may be gone before the bunny! Rabbits and children Rabbits can make good family pets if parents respect the needs of the rabbit and the limitations of the children. Adults need to accept all the responsibility of caring for the rabbit. Please do not buy a rabbit solely as a child's pet.
* Small children with rabbits need supervision.
* Rabbits can scratch and bite if harassed. They do not like to be picked up and can easily injure their backs if they fall or are dropped.
* Children may not have the patience necessary to establish a relationship with a rabbit It's a good idea to choose a large breed of rabbit if you have young children as they are generally quieter, sturdier and too large to be picked up.
Where to get a rabbit
* Why not adopt a rescue bunny? Britain is flooded with unwanted pet rabbits awaiting new homes in rescue centres and if you adopt an adult bunny you can be sure of its personality.
* Many pet shops sell young rabbits but if you want a particular breed or colour, locate a reputable breeder via the Pet Plan Rabbit List who will be able to give you advice about your rabbit and show you adult examples of the breed. Wherever you get your rabbit you can be sure that with care, love and respect your rabbit will become a faithful and entertaining friend and member of your family.
Children and Pet Rabbits
A house rabbit may seem like the perfect companion for your child, but this is not always the case. Many children are too young to handle a rabbit appropriately. Bunnies may look cute and cuddly, but they do not behave in ways typified in children's stories or cartoons.
Many rabbits do not enjoy being held and will kick and claw when picked up. Your child may end up with some painful scratches. Your rabbit may end up far worse. Rabbits are delicate creatures and struggling to get out of the grasp of a child (or adult) can leave them with broken bones or other injuries.
Rabbits are timid creatures. Loud noises or children running around can scare them. Your child may be disappointed that bunny does not want to come and play when called. Bunny will be more inclined to come play with your child if he/she is sitting quietly on the floor. Rabbits sometimes want to be left alone to eat or nap, and children need to be reminded of that.
Adopting a rabbit is a very big commitment. Rabbits have a life span of over ten years. If you adopt a baby bunny for your ten year old, be prepared to care for the rabbit when your child has gone off to college. Many shelters have older rabbits that would love a caring forever home.
Children may lose interest in a rabbit when the novelty has worn off or find it burdensome to care for a rabbit. Rabbits are easily litter box trained, but their litter needs to be changed regularly. They require fresh food and water daily. They also require regular grooming and nail clipping. Rabbits are social animals that require a lot of individual attention. They need daily exercise and playtime, and when they are not in a pen or cage, you will have to ensure that your home is bunny proofed. All of these factors need to be taken into consideration when determining if a rabbit is right for your family.
Remember that rabbits are family pets, not children's pets. It takes a family level of commitment to care for and provide a good life for a rabbit.
Many rabbits do not enjoy being held and will kick and claw when picked up. Your child may end up with some painful scratches. Your rabbit may end up far worse. Rabbits are delicate creatures and struggling to get out of the grasp of a child (or adult) can leave them with broken bones or other injuries.
Rabbits are timid creatures. Loud noises or children running around can scare them. Your child may be disappointed that bunny does not want to come and play when called. Bunny will be more inclined to come play with your child if he/she is sitting quietly on the floor. Rabbits sometimes want to be left alone to eat or nap, and children need to be reminded of that.
Adopting a rabbit is a very big commitment. Rabbits have a life span of over ten years. If you adopt a baby bunny for your ten year old, be prepared to care for the rabbit when your child has gone off to college. Many shelters have older rabbits that would love a caring forever home.
Children may lose interest in a rabbit when the novelty has worn off or find it burdensome to care for a rabbit. Rabbits are easily litter box trained, but their litter needs to be changed regularly. They require fresh food and water daily. They also require regular grooming and nail clipping. Rabbits are social animals that require a lot of individual attention. They need daily exercise and playtime, and when they are not in a pen or cage, you will have to ensure that your home is bunny proofed. All of these factors need to be taken into consideration when determining if a rabbit is right for your family.
Remember that rabbits are family pets, not children's pets. It takes a family level of commitment to care for and provide a good life for a rabbit.
Children and Rabbits
OverviewChildren & rabbits are natural companions-right? The answer could be yes, no, or "maybe so" depending on many factors.
Are you thinking of getting a rabbit for your child? Are you trying to figure out how to live with both a rabbit and a child since having a baby? Does your family already have a rabbit? Are you finding that the children and rabbit do not interact as you had expected? Did your family agree that the rabbit would be the "children's responsibility" and now that is not happening?
Then, please read on!
What's a Rabbit Really Like?Many people are surprised and disappointed to find that rabbits rarely conform to the cute-n-cuddly stereotype in children's stories Baby bunnies (and many young adult rabbits) are too busy dashing madly about, squeezing behind furniture, and chewing baseboards and rugs to be held. Also, rabbits are physically delicate animals which means they can be hurt by children picking them up. Because rabbits feel frightened when people pick them up, they kick and struggle which means children can also get hurt Rabbits are also built to react to sudden changes which means they may either run away or try to bite when approached too quickly and too loudly. Stress-related illnesses are common. For these reasons, many children, especially young children, will find it difficult to interact with a rabbit and soon lose interest.
So why do they make good house pets? Rabbits:
are quiet can learn near-perfect litterbox habits
are fun to watch
have different personalities just as individual dogs and cats do
don't need a yard if given plenty of indoor, sun-lit exercise space.
In addition, rabbits are social animals meaning they need the companionship of humans or other animals, although the need may vary among individual rabbits. They play, some more than others. Many can get along with most cats and some dogs when properly introduced. Many enjoy being with people but your family must have patience, understanding, and an acceptance of individual differences to earn their trust.
In order for a family and a rabbit to get to know each other (and for the rabbit's best health), the rabbit needs to be an indoor pet with as much out-of-cage time with the family as possible. If you relegate your rabbit to an outdoor hutch (or even to an indoor cage for most of the day), your family will miss getting to know the special personality of the rabbit.
As the adult, you need to get used to this idea:
The rabbit will be your pet.If your family already has a rabbit whom "n were supposed to care for" and there are problems with this, then try to reconcile yourself to the fact that a rabbit is an adult's responsibility. Rabbits are very sensitive to changes to their feeding, cleaning, and exercise routines. Changes are stressful and may lead to illness. Symptoms of illness are often subtle changes in appetite, behavior, and/or droppings that even mature children will miss. It is unreasonable to expect a child of any age to take responsibility for care of a rabbit (or any pet). The rabbit and your children, as well as the family peace, will benefit greatly from you accepting this notion.
If your family is considering adopting a rabbit, decide how you and the other adults in the household feel about taking on the responsibility of a rabbit. Do the adults want a rabbit as a member of the family? If the rabbit is an all-around family member (lives indoors, gets regular out-of-cage time) and play with the rabbit is supervised, then a child and rabbit can get to know each other and live together happily. Do the adults have an understanding of the basic nature of rabbits and what to expect in terms of time, training, and cost? Or, are you open to finding out? Are the adults willing to make a 5 to 10 yr. commitment?
Unless the adults of the household are enthusiastic, informed, and committed about the work involved, a stuffed animal rabbit is a better choice.
Other Factors: Amount of Time & Patience You Have to Devote.You don't have to be "Super-Adult" to have peaceful coexistence between rabbit and children. But, do you want another "toddler"? Rabbits are a lot like 2 yr. old children-they can be a joy to live with, but:
You will need to spend time in toilet-training i.e.: litterbox training and have tolerance for accidents. Most rabbit people take occasional scattered droppings in stride. There may be an occasional puddle, usually done to mark new territory.
You will need to bunny-proof the parts of your house where the rabbit is allowed to run somewhat similar to toddler-proofing.
You will need to check on your rabbit often and supervise child/rabbit interactions when the rabbit is out for exercise. Three to four hours per day of out-of-cage time is the minimum.
Some of your things may be partially ruined. The amount of chewing and digging that your rabbit does will depend on age, personality, whether spayed/neutered, as well as on what toys you provide him.
Your rabbit will need toys but these can be homemade.
Just like human toddlers, rabbits respond to routines for feeding, playing, and cleaning up. The main thing is to find a routine that is easy for you. If the routine is too difficult, you will begin to look at the rabbit as one more mess-maker.
A rabbit, like a child, responds best to situations that are set up so he will do the right things and receive praise for doing right instead of punishment for doing wrong.
Other Factors: Your Child's Personality If your child is generally easy-going, calm, gentle, and cooperative, you may enjoy having a rabbit as a member of the family. If your child is generally on the loud side, very active, tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequently seems to need reminders about or challenges rules, s/he may find it difficult to build a relationship with a rabbit and you may find that a rabbit is an additional stress.
Other Factors: Number of Children & AgesContrary to Easter-time hype, rabbits are rarely a good choice for a small child (younger than 7 yrs.). The natural exuberance, rambunctiousness, and decibel-level of the average toddler is stressful for most rabbits. Children want a companion they can hold and cuddle; Rabbits need someone who understands that they are ground-loving creatures.
The guidelines below are based on what children of varying ages are genuinely like while keeping in mind the type of household most rabbits do well in. Of course, rabbits and children do vary and there may be exceptions to these guidelines. The most important factor is most likely the adults' attitude and knowledge level (see previous section "The Rabbit Will Be Your Pet").
One Child Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit unless your child fits the calm" description and you are an informed adult who wants to deal with another toddler. It can be done though, if you have the time and patience.
One or More Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. You are likely very busy with active children who need a lot of your attention which will probably leave you little time for managing a rabbit.
One Younger than & One Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. If your younger child is "on the move and into everything, it may be difficult for you & rabbit to live happily even if the older child is of the "calm" type.
1 or More Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Again, your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. Lots of friends coming & going will probably stress out a rabbit. Your children may also be involved in quite a few activities (music lessons, sports, etc.) which may leave little time for the rabbit & family to get to know each other.
One Younger and 1 or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 3. & 4. above, but your household is most likely too busy and noisy to build a friendship with a rabbit. Caring for and training a rabbit may be "just one more thing" that the adults have to do.
Two or More Younger than & One or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 2.-5. above.
One Child Older 'than 7 Years-If you are enthusiastic about accepting responsibility for a rabbit and if your child is the calm type or at least generally accepting of rules for behavior, you and a rabbit would probably find it a joy to live together. If your child if of the loud/active/ challenging rules variety, a rabbit may just increase your stress level.
Other Factors: MoneyAs with any pet, rabbits require a commitment in terms of housing, feeding, and medical care for their natural lives. The biggest initial expenses will be a cage ($100 and up) and a spay ($80-200) or neuter ($75-150) operation if this was not done prior to adoption or purchase. Rabbits do not need annual shots (in the USA at least) but you will usually need to make several visits to a veterinarian when she is sick. You will need to keep supplies of litter, food pellets, fresh vegetables, and hay on hand.
Other Factors: SpaceRabbits should be kept indoors for health, safety, and socialization. You will need space for at least a 30" x 30" or 24" x 36" cage. The cage should be away from TV's, stereos and high noise areas, but not completely isolated from people. Consider which area is most easily bunny-proofed for your rabbit's out-of-cage time.
AllergiesIf any of your family has allergies, you should have testing done to see if there is an allergy to rabbits before you get a rabbit.
New Baby in the House?If a baby is coming, or has come, to your rabbit's house, your rabbit will probably be getting less of your attention for awhile, but neither of you needs to suffer. You may not have time for lots of petting and playing, but focus on maintaining the rabbit's daily care routine. It can be relaxing to have some petting time with your rabbit when baby sleeps. Rabbit will adjust! Your rabbit will be infinitely happier with you than if he is given away to adjust to a new home. Shelters and rescue groups overflowing with dogs, cats, and yes, rabbits, are constant reminders of how difficult it is to find people willing to give an animal a good home for life. Many are initially enthusiastic about getting a new pet, but when the newness wears off and the reality of care sets in, many animals find themselves disposed of for the owners convenience.
Remember!-When baby gets older, rabbit will have added attention from your child (and you) which can be a good thing if you are committed to teaching your child about the rabbit.
Teaching Children to be Rabbit People Whether you have brought a baby home to your rabbit's house or have brought a rabbit home to your child's house, it is well to remember to:
Learn about rabbit behavior/language so you can point out the rabbits feelings about your child's actions.
Choose a time of day when your child is on "low ebb" for teaching your child about the rabbit and for play with the rabbit.
Set your child and the rabbit up for success. Try to anticipate and prevent inappropriate interaction by often showing your child how to interact.
Try not to get into a pattern of always saying "Don't..." and "Stop..." to your child about the rabbit. If your child does something inappropriate, show and talk about what the child can do with the rabbit. Offer choices for behavior and ask "What could you do...?". Otherwise, your child may see the rabbit as something he is always getting in trouble for.
Keep the child away from the rabbit for a short time if the child refuses to stop a behavior that may hurt the rabbit.
Set up the cage so rabbit can get away from the children-"a safe zone". Use child gates in doorways and or turn the cage so the door faces the wall with enough room for rabbit but not the child.
Put the rabbit in a closed-off room when there are lots of playmates or parties. It is often better if the guests "don't know the rabbit exists". --Refrain from having children's friends in to "see the new rabbit" for the first week or so.
Show children's friends where rabbit lives and how to pet at times when only 1 or 2 friends visit, then make sure the rabbit is safe during the visit.
What You Can Do with Different Ages
Sitting/Crawling Infants (6-12 months)
Start teaching the idea that the rabbit is to be respected and treated carefully.
BUNNYRULE # l: Gentle petting. Sit on the floor with child in your lap while you pet and talk to the rabbit. Guide her hand over the rabbit's head, ears, and upper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold her hand flat or use the back of her hand. Do this frequently but no longer than 5 mins. at a time.
BUNNYRULE #2: Leave the rabbit alone when he hops away or goes in his cage. Interpret rabbit's body language for the child ("Oops, he didn't want anymore petting. He wants to eat or take a nap.) Prevent the tendencies to chase a rabbit who has had enough and to bang/poke on the cage by explaining: "Chasing him will make him scared of you." or "Banging on his house scares him." Watch your child carefully and make such explanations at the moment before it looks like the child may engage in such behaviors. Explaining, then redirecting the child's attention works best for this age when inappropriate behavior seems imminent or occurs.
BUNNYRULE #3: Don't touch droppings and litter. Teach the child that the litterbox and droppings that may be found on floor are "dirt". You may have no problem with picking up the dry droppings with your hand, but you don't stick your fingers in your mouth! You may have to change your habits for awhile to teach this concept. A box with a cage floor wire grate works well.
Toddlers (1-2 yrs.)
Continue reinforcing or teach BUNNYRULES 1-3 and add #4. Although unintentional, toddlers are capable of doing real harm to a rabbit. They will need constant supervision and frequent gentle reminders of appropriate behavior. See below for additional notes on rules.
Due to still-developing muscle coordination, toddlers have a hard time keeping fingers out of rabbits' eyes so you may have to insist on two-finger petting or back-of-hand petting.
Closely supervise children's interactions with the rabbit. This is the stage of the child's development when some are prone to bash things with sticks. Children this age also have a hard time not chasing a rabbit who hops away. If she chases the rabbit, the rabbit will learn to be scared of her. Teach respect for the rabbit ending the petting or playing session ('Well, that's all he wanted to do.") and interest the child in another activity.
Children who are interested in toilet-training can understand "that is where the bunny poops and pees".
BUNNYRULE #4:We pet, but don't pick up the rabbit. Explain that it scares the rabbit to be picked up and both of you could get hurt. Explain that Mom or Dad may pick up the rabbit if she needs care.
Explain rabbit language & actions: "Hear her teeth clicking? She likes the petting. See her toss the ball? She's playing." If child gets scratched, explain what the child did to scare or hurt the rabbit and show a better way to act. Redirect loud play to another area ("Look at bunny. She doesn't like the noise.")
Toddlers love to share their snacks with the rabbit so make sure rabbit gets only small amounts proper foods and is not overloaded with cereals and crackers. They also love to help with feeding - scooping & pouring food, taking vegetables and hay to rabbit.
One to Seven-Year Olds
If a 2-yr old has grown up with a rabbit, she can have quite a bit of empathy for and knowledge about a rabbit. Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #1 through 4. Teach by example instead of by a lot of "No's"; Your child will learn most by watching you. If interested, the child may help with feeding and play with the rabbit with your supervision.
Older children
Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #1 through 4. Teach by example and setting up situations for success. Your child may build a friendship with the rabbit by sitting on the floor with the rabbit while doing homework, art work, reading, or watching t.v. The rabbit will eventually come to investigate and to be petted. Older children have lots of other interests and interest in rabbit may come and go. The rabbit's care should continue to be your responsibility, but your child may help with feeding and grooming.
Choosing a RabbitRabbits have different personalities so it is difficult to make generalizations about breeds. In general though, a medium to large breed adult rabbit is usually better for a child. They will command the most respect from a child and are easier to pet because they have larger heads. Dwarf breeds tend to be more excitable, energetic, and aggressive. Baby rabbits are very active, often nippy, and chew everything in sight. Adult rabbits are more easily litter-and house-trained, especially after spaying or neutering. You will also have a better idea of a rabbits personality if you choose an adult who is spayed or neutered.
Adopt a rabbit from a rescue group or local shelters. There are many advantages and you will be helping to combat rabbit overpopulation. Animal shelters euthanize hundreds of unwanted rabbits each year, many less than a year old. Many more die agonizing deaths from neglect and abandonment without ever reaching a shelter. You will be giving one of the many unwanted rabbits a second chance for a loving home while discouraging those who breed rabbits for profit.
Teaching Responsibility: Something to Think AboutMany parents say they want to get a rabbit for their child to teach the child some responsibility. What usually happens is that the child loses interest (not to mention being incapable of sticking to a routine and providing proper care), and the rabbit suffers. The child, at best, learns to feel bad that she has failed and caused suffering. At worst, she learns to resent the animal for the nagging that she is hearing from the adult. Often, the rabbit is given away because "you didn't take care of it". The child learns that life is disposable and that if she waits long enough, someone else will relieve her of her "responsibility'.
So, let your child help with the rabbit, but don't insist. If the child appears interested, encourage her; if she becomes bored, let her move on to the next thing, and you carry on with the rabbit. She learns most of all from watching you-your actions, your tone of voice when you speak to the rabbit, and your attitude. From this she learns the nurturing (responsible) point of view- the patient waiting, the faithful caring, the joyful appreciation and acceptance of a living creature for who it is, not who you wish it to be.
"It is not easy to manage young humans and animals, but when parents find solutions, rather than dispose of an animal for convenience sake, an important concept is communicated to the child. This is alive. This is valuable. You don't throw it away." - Marinell Harriman, Importance of Permanence
This information is based on material from the House Rabbit Society and on the experiences of the author. In addition to working with over 1200 elementary school-aged children during a 12-yr. teaching career, the author has lived with house rabbits since 1988 and in 1992 brought baby Emily home to then-2 yr. old Gracie Rabbit. Three-year-old Emily now lives with Gracie & Jessie Rabbit (& Benny Cat). She has become a responsible child who has empathy for and knowledge about her animals far beyond her years.
Are you thinking of getting a rabbit for your child? Are you trying to figure out how to live with both a rabbit and a child since having a baby? Does your family already have a rabbit? Are you finding that the children and rabbit do not interact as you had expected? Did your family agree that the rabbit would be the "children's responsibility" and now that is not happening?
Then, please read on!
What's a Rabbit Really Like?Many people are surprised and disappointed to find that rabbits rarely conform to the cute-n-cuddly stereotype in children's stories Baby bunnies (and many young adult rabbits) are too busy dashing madly about, squeezing behind furniture, and chewing baseboards and rugs to be held. Also, rabbits are physically delicate animals which means they can be hurt by children picking them up. Because rabbits feel frightened when people pick them up, they kick and struggle which means children can also get hurt Rabbits are also built to react to sudden changes which means they may either run away or try to bite when approached too quickly and too loudly. Stress-related illnesses are common. For these reasons, many children, especially young children, will find it difficult to interact with a rabbit and soon lose interest.
So why do they make good house pets? Rabbits:
are quiet can learn near-perfect litterbox habits
are fun to watch
have different personalities just as individual dogs and cats do
don't need a yard if given plenty of indoor, sun-lit exercise space.
In addition, rabbits are social animals meaning they need the companionship of humans or other animals, although the need may vary among individual rabbits. They play, some more than others. Many can get along with most cats and some dogs when properly introduced. Many enjoy being with people but your family must have patience, understanding, and an acceptance of individual differences to earn their trust.
In order for a family and a rabbit to get to know each other (and for the rabbit's best health), the rabbit needs to be an indoor pet with as much out-of-cage time with the family as possible. If you relegate your rabbit to an outdoor hutch (or even to an indoor cage for most of the day), your family will miss getting to know the special personality of the rabbit.
As the adult, you need to get used to this idea:
The rabbit will be your pet.If your family already has a rabbit whom "n were supposed to care for" and there are problems with this, then try to reconcile yourself to the fact that a rabbit is an adult's responsibility. Rabbits are very sensitive to changes to their feeding, cleaning, and exercise routines. Changes are stressful and may lead to illness. Symptoms of illness are often subtle changes in appetite, behavior, and/or droppings that even mature children will miss. It is unreasonable to expect a child of any age to take responsibility for care of a rabbit (or any pet). The rabbit and your children, as well as the family peace, will benefit greatly from you accepting this notion.
If your family is considering adopting a rabbit, decide how you and the other adults in the household feel about taking on the responsibility of a rabbit. Do the adults want a rabbit as a member of the family? If the rabbit is an all-around family member (lives indoors, gets regular out-of-cage time) and play with the rabbit is supervised, then a child and rabbit can get to know each other and live together happily. Do the adults have an understanding of the basic nature of rabbits and what to expect in terms of time, training, and cost? Or, are you open to finding out? Are the adults willing to make a 5 to 10 yr. commitment?
Unless the adults of the household are enthusiastic, informed, and committed about the work involved, a stuffed animal rabbit is a better choice.
Other Factors: Amount of Time & Patience You Have to Devote.You don't have to be "Super-Adult" to have peaceful coexistence between rabbit and children. But, do you want another "toddler"? Rabbits are a lot like 2 yr. old children-they can be a joy to live with, but:
You will need to spend time in toilet-training i.e.: litterbox training and have tolerance for accidents. Most rabbit people take occasional scattered droppings in stride. There may be an occasional puddle, usually done to mark new territory.
You will need to bunny-proof the parts of your house where the rabbit is allowed to run somewhat similar to toddler-proofing.
You will need to check on your rabbit often and supervise child/rabbit interactions when the rabbit is out for exercise. Three to four hours per day of out-of-cage time is the minimum.
Some of your things may be partially ruined. The amount of chewing and digging that your rabbit does will depend on age, personality, whether spayed/neutered, as well as on what toys you provide him.
Your rabbit will need toys but these can be homemade.
Just like human toddlers, rabbits respond to routines for feeding, playing, and cleaning up. The main thing is to find a routine that is easy for you. If the routine is too difficult, you will begin to look at the rabbit as one more mess-maker.
A rabbit, like a child, responds best to situations that are set up so he will do the right things and receive praise for doing right instead of punishment for doing wrong.
Other Factors: Your Child's Personality If your child is generally easy-going, calm, gentle, and cooperative, you may enjoy having a rabbit as a member of the family. If your child is generally on the loud side, very active, tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequently seems to need reminders about or challenges rules, s/he may find it difficult to build a relationship with a rabbit and you may find that a rabbit is an additional stress.
Other Factors: Number of Children & AgesContrary to Easter-time hype, rabbits are rarely a good choice for a small child (younger than 7 yrs.). The natural exuberance, rambunctiousness, and decibel-level of the average toddler is stressful for most rabbits. Children want a companion they can hold and cuddle; Rabbits need someone who understands that they are ground-loving creatures.
The guidelines below are based on what children of varying ages are genuinely like while keeping in mind the type of household most rabbits do well in. Of course, rabbits and children do vary and there may be exceptions to these guidelines. The most important factor is most likely the adults' attitude and knowledge level (see previous section "The Rabbit Will Be Your Pet").
One Child Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit unless your child fits the calm" description and you are an informed adult who wants to deal with another toddler. It can be done though, if you have the time and patience.
One or More Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. You are likely very busy with active children who need a lot of your attention which will probably leave you little time for managing a rabbit.
One Younger than & One Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. If your younger child is "on the move and into everything, it may be difficult for you & rabbit to live happily even if the older child is of the "calm" type.
1 or More Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Again, your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. Lots of friends coming & going will probably stress out a rabbit. Your children may also be involved in quite a few activities (music lessons, sports, etc.) which may leave little time for the rabbit & family to get to know each other.
One Younger and 1 or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 3. & 4. above, but your household is most likely too busy and noisy to build a friendship with a rabbit. Caring for and training a rabbit may be "just one more thing" that the adults have to do.
Two or More Younger than & One or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 2.-5. above.
One Child Older 'than 7 Years-If you are enthusiastic about accepting responsibility for a rabbit and if your child is the calm type or at least generally accepting of rules for behavior, you and a rabbit would probably find it a joy to live together. If your child if of the loud/active/ challenging rules variety, a rabbit may just increase your stress level.
Other Factors: MoneyAs with any pet, rabbits require a commitment in terms of housing, feeding, and medical care for their natural lives. The biggest initial expenses will be a cage ($100 and up) and a spay ($80-200) or neuter ($75-150) operation if this was not done prior to adoption or purchase. Rabbits do not need annual shots (in the USA at least) but you will usually need to make several visits to a veterinarian when she is sick. You will need to keep supplies of litter, food pellets, fresh vegetables, and hay on hand.
Other Factors: SpaceRabbits should be kept indoors for health, safety, and socialization. You will need space for at least a 30" x 30" or 24" x 36" cage. The cage should be away from TV's, stereos and high noise areas, but not completely isolated from people. Consider which area is most easily bunny-proofed for your rabbit's out-of-cage time.
AllergiesIf any of your family has allergies, you should have testing done to see if there is an allergy to rabbits before you get a rabbit.
New Baby in the House?If a baby is coming, or has come, to your rabbit's house, your rabbit will probably be getting less of your attention for awhile, but neither of you needs to suffer. You may not have time for lots of petting and playing, but focus on maintaining the rabbit's daily care routine. It can be relaxing to have some petting time with your rabbit when baby sleeps. Rabbit will adjust! Your rabbit will be infinitely happier with you than if he is given away to adjust to a new home. Shelters and rescue groups overflowing with dogs, cats, and yes, rabbits, are constant reminders of how difficult it is to find people willing to give an animal a good home for life. Many are initially enthusiastic about getting a new pet, but when the newness wears off and the reality of care sets in, many animals find themselves disposed of for the owners convenience.
Remember!-When baby gets older, rabbit will have added attention from your child (and you) which can be a good thing if you are committed to teaching your child about the rabbit.
Teaching Children to be Rabbit People Whether you have brought a baby home to your rabbit's house or have brought a rabbit home to your child's house, it is well to remember to:
Learn about rabbit behavior/language so you can point out the rabbits feelings about your child's actions.
Choose a time of day when your child is on "low ebb" for teaching your child about the rabbit and for play with the rabbit.
Set your child and the rabbit up for success. Try to anticipate and prevent inappropriate interaction by often showing your child how to interact.
Try not to get into a pattern of always saying "Don't..." and "Stop..." to your child about the rabbit. If your child does something inappropriate, show and talk about what the child can do with the rabbit. Offer choices for behavior and ask "What could you do...?". Otherwise, your child may see the rabbit as something he is always getting in trouble for.
Keep the child away from the rabbit for a short time if the child refuses to stop a behavior that may hurt the rabbit.
Set up the cage so rabbit can get away from the children-"a safe zone". Use child gates in doorways and or turn the cage so the door faces the wall with enough room for rabbit but not the child.
Put the rabbit in a closed-off room when there are lots of playmates or parties. It is often better if the guests "don't know the rabbit exists". --Refrain from having children's friends in to "see the new rabbit" for the first week or so.
Show children's friends where rabbit lives and how to pet at times when only 1 or 2 friends visit, then make sure the rabbit is safe during the visit.
What You Can Do with Different Ages
Sitting/Crawling Infants (6-12 months)
Start teaching the idea that the rabbit is to be respected and treated carefully.
BUNNYRULE # l: Gentle petting. Sit on the floor with child in your lap while you pet and talk to the rabbit. Guide her hand over the rabbit's head, ears, and upper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold her hand flat or use the back of her hand. Do this frequently but no longer than 5 mins. at a time.
BUNNYRULE #2: Leave the rabbit alone when he hops away or goes in his cage. Interpret rabbit's body language for the child ("Oops, he didn't want anymore petting. He wants to eat or take a nap.) Prevent the tendencies to chase a rabbit who has had enough and to bang/poke on the cage by explaining: "Chasing him will make him scared of you." or "Banging on his house scares him." Watch your child carefully and make such explanations at the moment before it looks like the child may engage in such behaviors. Explaining, then redirecting the child's attention works best for this age when inappropriate behavior seems imminent or occurs.
BUNNYRULE #3: Don't touch droppings and litter. Teach the child that the litterbox and droppings that may be found on floor are "dirt". You may have no problem with picking up the dry droppings with your hand, but you don't stick your fingers in your mouth! You may have to change your habits for awhile to teach this concept. A box with a cage floor wire grate works well.
Toddlers (1-2 yrs.)
Continue reinforcing or teach BUNNYRULES 1-3 and add #4. Although unintentional, toddlers are capable of doing real harm to a rabbit. They will need constant supervision and frequent gentle reminders of appropriate behavior. See below for additional notes on rules.
Due to still-developing muscle coordination, toddlers have a hard time keeping fingers out of rabbits' eyes so you may have to insist on two-finger petting or back-of-hand petting.
Closely supervise children's interactions with the rabbit. This is the stage of the child's development when some are prone to bash things with sticks. Children this age also have a hard time not chasing a rabbit who hops away. If she chases the rabbit, the rabbit will learn to be scared of her. Teach respect for the rabbit ending the petting or playing session ('Well, that's all he wanted to do.") and interest the child in another activity.
Children who are interested in toilet-training can understand "that is where the bunny poops and pees".
BUNNYRULE #4:We pet, but don't pick up the rabbit. Explain that it scares the rabbit to be picked up and both of you could get hurt. Explain that Mom or Dad may pick up the rabbit if she needs care.
Explain rabbit language & actions: "Hear her teeth clicking? She likes the petting. See her toss the ball? She's playing." If child gets scratched, explain what the child did to scare or hurt the rabbit and show a better way to act. Redirect loud play to another area ("Look at bunny. She doesn't like the noise.")
Toddlers love to share their snacks with the rabbit so make sure rabbit gets only small amounts proper foods and is not overloaded with cereals and crackers. They also love to help with feeding - scooping & pouring food, taking vegetables and hay to rabbit.
One to Seven-Year Olds
If a 2-yr old has grown up with a rabbit, she can have quite a bit of empathy for and knowledge about a rabbit. Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #1 through 4. Teach by example instead of by a lot of "No's"; Your child will learn most by watching you. If interested, the child may help with feeding and play with the rabbit with your supervision.
Older children
Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #1 through 4. Teach by example and setting up situations for success. Your child may build a friendship with the rabbit by sitting on the floor with the rabbit while doing homework, art work, reading, or watching t.v. The rabbit will eventually come to investigate and to be petted. Older children have lots of other interests and interest in rabbit may come and go. The rabbit's care should continue to be your responsibility, but your child may help with feeding and grooming.
Choosing a RabbitRabbits have different personalities so it is difficult to make generalizations about breeds. In general though, a medium to large breed adult rabbit is usually better for a child. They will command the most respect from a child and are easier to pet because they have larger heads. Dwarf breeds tend to be more excitable, energetic, and aggressive. Baby rabbits are very active, often nippy, and chew everything in sight. Adult rabbits are more easily litter-and house-trained, especially after spaying or neutering. You will also have a better idea of a rabbits personality if you choose an adult who is spayed or neutered.
Adopt a rabbit from a rescue group or local shelters. There are many advantages and you will be helping to combat rabbit overpopulation. Animal shelters euthanize hundreds of unwanted rabbits each year, many less than a year old. Many more die agonizing deaths from neglect and abandonment without ever reaching a shelter. You will be giving one of the many unwanted rabbits a second chance for a loving home while discouraging those who breed rabbits for profit.
Teaching Responsibility: Something to Think AboutMany parents say they want to get a rabbit for their child to teach the child some responsibility. What usually happens is that the child loses interest (not to mention being incapable of sticking to a routine and providing proper care), and the rabbit suffers. The child, at best, learns to feel bad that she has failed and caused suffering. At worst, she learns to resent the animal for the nagging that she is hearing from the adult. Often, the rabbit is given away because "you didn't take care of it". The child learns that life is disposable and that if she waits long enough, someone else will relieve her of her "responsibility'.
So, let your child help with the rabbit, but don't insist. If the child appears interested, encourage her; if she becomes bored, let her move on to the next thing, and you carry on with the rabbit. She learns most of all from watching you-your actions, your tone of voice when you speak to the rabbit, and your attitude. From this she learns the nurturing (responsible) point of view- the patient waiting, the faithful caring, the joyful appreciation and acceptance of a living creature for who it is, not who you wish it to be.
"It is not easy to manage young humans and animals, but when parents find solutions, rather than dispose of an animal for convenience sake, an important concept is communicated to the child. This is alive. This is valuable. You don't throw it away." - Marinell Harriman, Importance of Permanence
This information is based on material from the House Rabbit Society and on the experiences of the author. In addition to working with over 1200 elementary school-aged children during a 12-yr. teaching career, the author has lived with house rabbits since 1988 and in 1992 brought baby Emily home to then-2 yr. old Gracie Rabbit. Three-year-old Emily now lives with Gracie & Jessie Rabbit (& Benny Cat). She has become a responsible child who has empathy for and knowledge about her animals far beyond her years.
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