Your child has been asking for a pet. You consider getting him a dog or a cat but think about how much of a commitment having a family pet can be. Then, you think about getting a rabbit. Why not? A rabbit is a perfect child's pet. They are cute, cuddly, spend most of the time in a cage and don't seem to require much care, right?
Dispelling the Myths
Rabbits are docile and cuddly.Rabbits are often portrayed by the media and in children's books as being cuddly and docile. Most people are disappointed to find that many times rabbits just simply do not live up this stereotype. Most rabbits do not like to be carried around, and because of their delicate skeletal structure, may be easily injured trying to escape from a child's arms. This may result in an injury to the child, as well as to the rabbit.
Rabbits are low maintenance pets.Rabbits have needs that are similar to other house pets. They require sufficient mental stimulation and physical exercise in a bunny-proofed area each day. Their cages/litter boxes need to be cleaned often to prevent odour. When rabbits are ill, they require care from a qualified veterinarian. They also have very specific dietary requirements.
Having a pet teaches a child responsibility.Many parents say they want to get a pet for their child to teach the child to be responsible. While this sounds good in theory, it's more likely that the child will end up losing interest in the pet. The pet is then either neglected or given away. In either case, the child doesn't learn responsibility. Even worse, the child will sometimes learn that life is disposable and that if he just waits long enough, someone else will relieve him of his "responsibility".
So, does this mean that you shouldn't get a rabbit for your child? No, not necessarily, but as the adult, it is important to realize that you will be the primary care taker of the rabbit. It is, therefore, essential that you understand what rabbits are like and what proper care entails.
So, What is a Rabbit Really Like?The important thing to remember when describing what rabbits are really like is that each rabbit has a unique personality and you can't really make generalizations by breed. However, that said most rabbits exhibit one or more of the following traits:
Rabbits are social animals. Most really enjoy the company of either another rabbit (or other animal such as dog or cat) or of a human.
Rabbits are curious. Want to get a rabbit's attention? Simply sit on the floor in their area, read a book and ignore them. Most can't resist approaching.
Rabbits need sufficient physical exercise and mental stimulation each day. For bunny-proofing tips and suggestions for suitable toys, see the behaviour section of this web site.
Rabbits are fastidious groomers and are easily litter trained. If you keep your rabbit's cage/area clean, they won't have an odour.
Rabbits love routine. Changes to feeding and exercise schedules are stressful and may lead to illness or an ill-behaved rabbit. If a schedule must be changed, introduce changes gradually.
Other Things to Consider Before Getting a RabbitIn addition to doing research, and knowing what having a rabbit entails, there are other things you must consider, when deciding if a rabbit is right for you and your child.
Do any of your family members have allergies? If so, it is important to make sure that they won't be allergic to the rabbit before bringing him home. Note: Many people are allergic to hay (a staple in your rabbit's diet) and NOT the rabbit itself.
Consider your child's personality. If your child is calm and cooperative, a rabbit may be an appropriate addition to your family. On the other hand, if your child is loud, tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequently needs to be reminded of rules, then a rabbit probably isn't a good choice.
Consider your child's age. Rabbits are rarely good pets for very young children (less than 7 years old). Very young children do not have the coordination to interact with a rabbit and may accidentally hurt it. However, if you are willing to supervise their interaction, then a rabbit may be appropriate.
Does your family have time for a rabbit? Are you and your child prepared to make time for the rabbit, which involves cleaning, feeding and socializing? This is a committment that can last 6 to 10 years.
Tips for Successful Interaction Between Rabbits and ChildrenNow that you've considered the rabbit's needs and have determined that your child would interact well with a rabbit, here are some tips that may help you maintain a happy household.
Show your child how to pet the bunny. Guide your child's hand over the rabbit's head, ears, and upper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold his hand flat or use the back of his hand. Do this frequently, but stop if the rabbit seems bothered by it. Always supervise your child's interactions with the rabbit.
Rabbits need to feel secure when being handled. If they do not, they will struggle and kick in an effort to escape. Children simply aren't physically strong enough to be capable of making the rabbit feel secure. For this reason, larger bunnies often make better companions for children than smaller breeds. They are less tempted to pick the rabbit up.
Children like to be able to pick up their toys and pets and carry them around. Always teach your child to interact with the rabbit at ground level. A rabbit feels more secure at ground level. Explain to the child that you (or another adult) will be the one who picks up the bunny for grooming, etc.
Make interactions with the rabbit a positive experience for the child. Explain to him that it is his special job to not scare the rabbit, not pick the rabbit up, etc. Avoid constantly using negative words like 'Don't' and 'Stop'.
Teach your child to leave the rabbit alone when he hops away or goes into his cage. It is helpful to interpret the rabbit's body language for the child to help him understand. For example, tell the child that 'I think the bunny wants to eat (or nap) now. Let's leave him alone for a bit'.
Discourage your child from chasing a rabbit who has had enough, poking at him through the cage or banging on his cage. This can be done by explaining: "Chasing the rabbit will make him scared of you." Or "Banging on his house scares him." It is important that you learn how to interpret rabbit behavior/language so you can explain the rabbit's feelings about your child's actions. Sometimes, it is also helpful to compare the bunny's feelings to a feeling familiar to your child. For example, tell the child that 'Banging on the rabbit's house scares him. You know how you are scared sometimes of loud noises?'.
Teach the child that the litterbox and the rabbit's droppings are "dirt" and always use a broom and dustpan to sweep up the rabbit's droppings when the child is around. A litter box with a grate over top or a wire bottomed cage works well.
Create a 'safe zone', where the rabbit can go for quiet and to escape. Use baby gates in doorways and or consider turning the cage so the door faces the wall with enough room for rabbit but not the child.
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Rabbits
Is a rabbit for me?
Are you thinking of keeping a pet rabbit? Or maybe you already have one. Either way you are one of the millions of pet lovers who think of rabbits as ideal pets. This is not surprising as they are endearing, affectionate animals that easily sway us with their charm. But just like any other pet, keeping a rabbit is a big commitment.
Bunny Basics Although they are different shapes, sizes and colours, pet rabbits are closely related to their wild cousins. Their basic nature and needs are the same as a wild rabbit.
* Rabbits are active!
They need plenty of space, a spacious run outdoors or freedom to run around the house for several hours every day.
* Rabbits are sociable!
Wild rabbits live in colonies, never on their own. Your pet will need plenty of company either from you, a bunny companion or preferably both.
Rabbits are naturally shy, quiet animals who hate being held above ground level. Gaining the trust of a rabbit takes time and effort.
A good home for a rabbit?
You'll need to keep these basic facts about rabbit nature in mind when deciding how best to keep your pet. Keeping a rabbit alone in a hutch doesn't meet many of the fundamental needs of the species and results in a bored and distressed pet. As a caring owner you'll need to look at alternatives.
Outdoors
* Two or more rabbits(provided they are neutered to stop fighting and breeding) living in a permanent enclosure in the garden with suitable shelter.
* Two rabbits sharing a hutch at night with daily access to a large exercise run (or garden, if you don't mind your plants being nibbled!) Remember, gardens and runs need to be secure against foxes, cats and dogs! Both these options offer a good quality of life. You would enjoy watching your rabbits behave in a natural way, but you would find that they won't become particularly tame.
Indoors
* If you want a closer relationship with your bunny then why not keep him as a houserabbit? In recent years an increasing number of people have moved away from the idea of keeping a rabbit in a hutch outside. Instead they are keeping their rabbits in their homes. Before considering keeping a house rabbit it is essential that you get as much information as possible. Rabbits are easily house trained, once they are neutered. It is better to start with an indoor cage, place a litter box in the corner of it and as soon as your rabbit uses the box consistently, you can give him more freedom. It is natural for rabbits to chew on curtains, furniture, rugs and most importantly electrical wires. Therefore all wires must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. They can be encased in vinyl tubing by splitting the tube lengthways and pushing the wire inside. Give your rabbit plenty of attention, something safe to chew on and toys, so they are distracted from chewing furnishings
* Two rabbits will be very content if you lead a busy lifestyle with less time to devote to them. Many houserabbits will watch TV from the sofa, flop out in front of the fire and run to greet their owners when they come in from work! However, houserabbits are not suitable pets for everyone. Just like cats and dogs, they can be demanding and destructive, especially as youngsters. Even after thorough training and "bunnyproofing" some wear and tear on the furnishings as well as a bit of mess such as pet hair is inevitable.
* "For better, for worse" Your rabbit will be completely dependent on you. That means arranging holiday care if you want to go away. He will need affection and attention every day. Houserabbits are a bit like toddlers that never grow up. Can you cope?
* "In sickness and in health" Your rabbit will need to be neutered and to have annual vaccinations against VHD and Myxomatosis. Veterinary fees for a rabbit are very similar to those for a cat, so pet health insurancecover is strongly recommended in case of serious health problems.
* "Till death us do part" The average life span of a rabbit is 7-10 years. You are taking on your pet for around a decade. If the rabbit is for the children� they may be gone before the bunny! Rabbits and children Rabbits can make good family pets if parents respect the needs of the rabbit and the limitations of the children. Adults need to accept all the responsibility of caring for the rabbit. Please do not buy a rabbit solely as a child's pet.
* Small children with rabbits need supervision.
* Rabbits can scratch and bite if harassed. They do not like to be picked up and can easily injure their backs if they fall or are dropped.
* Children may not have the patience necessary to establish a relationship with a rabbit It's a good idea to choose a large breed of rabbit if you have young children as they are generally quieter, sturdier and too large to be picked up.
Where to get a rabbit
* Why not adopt a rescue bunny? Britain is flooded with unwanted pet rabbits awaiting new homes in rescue centres and if you adopt an adult bunny you can be sure of its personality.
* Many pet shops sell young rabbits but if you want a particular breed or colour, locate a reputable breeder via the Pet Plan Rabbit List who will be able to give you advice about your rabbit and show you adult examples of the breed. Wherever you get your rabbit you can be sure that with care, love and respect your rabbit will become a faithful and entertaining friend and member of your family.
Are you thinking of keeping a pet rabbit? Or maybe you already have one. Either way you are one of the millions of pet lovers who think of rabbits as ideal pets. This is not surprising as they are endearing, affectionate animals that easily sway us with their charm. But just like any other pet, keeping a rabbit is a big commitment.
Bunny Basics Although they are different shapes, sizes and colours, pet rabbits are closely related to their wild cousins. Their basic nature and needs are the same as a wild rabbit.
* Rabbits are active!
They need plenty of space, a spacious run outdoors or freedom to run around the house for several hours every day.
* Rabbits are sociable!
Wild rabbits live in colonies, never on their own. Your pet will need plenty of company either from you, a bunny companion or preferably both.
Rabbits are naturally shy, quiet animals who hate being held above ground level. Gaining the trust of a rabbit takes time and effort.
A good home for a rabbit?
You'll need to keep these basic facts about rabbit nature in mind when deciding how best to keep your pet. Keeping a rabbit alone in a hutch doesn't meet many of the fundamental needs of the species and results in a bored and distressed pet. As a caring owner you'll need to look at alternatives.
Outdoors
* Two or more rabbits(provided they are neutered to stop fighting and breeding) living in a permanent enclosure in the garden with suitable shelter.
* Two rabbits sharing a hutch at night with daily access to a large exercise run (or garden, if you don't mind your plants being nibbled!) Remember, gardens and runs need to be secure against foxes, cats and dogs! Both these options offer a good quality of life. You would enjoy watching your rabbits behave in a natural way, but you would find that they won't become particularly tame.
Indoors
* If you want a closer relationship with your bunny then why not keep him as a houserabbit? In recent years an increasing number of people have moved away from the idea of keeping a rabbit in a hutch outside. Instead they are keeping their rabbits in their homes. Before considering keeping a house rabbit it is essential that you get as much information as possible. Rabbits are easily house trained, once they are neutered. It is better to start with an indoor cage, place a litter box in the corner of it and as soon as your rabbit uses the box consistently, you can give him more freedom. It is natural for rabbits to chew on curtains, furniture, rugs and most importantly electrical wires. Therefore all wires must be concealed so that the rabbit cannot reach them. They can be encased in vinyl tubing by splitting the tube lengthways and pushing the wire inside. Give your rabbit plenty of attention, something safe to chew on and toys, so they are distracted from chewing furnishings
* Two rabbits will be very content if you lead a busy lifestyle with less time to devote to them. Many houserabbits will watch TV from the sofa, flop out in front of the fire and run to greet their owners when they come in from work! However, houserabbits are not suitable pets for everyone. Just like cats and dogs, they can be demanding and destructive, especially as youngsters. Even after thorough training and "bunnyproofing" some wear and tear on the furnishings as well as a bit of mess such as pet hair is inevitable.
* "For better, for worse" Your rabbit will be completely dependent on you. That means arranging holiday care if you want to go away. He will need affection and attention every day. Houserabbits are a bit like toddlers that never grow up. Can you cope?
* "In sickness and in health" Your rabbit will need to be neutered and to have annual vaccinations against VHD and Myxomatosis. Veterinary fees for a rabbit are very similar to those for a cat, so pet health insurancecover is strongly recommended in case of serious health problems.
* "Till death us do part" The average life span of a rabbit is 7-10 years. You are taking on your pet for around a decade. If the rabbit is for the children� they may be gone before the bunny! Rabbits and children Rabbits can make good family pets if parents respect the needs of the rabbit and the limitations of the children. Adults need to accept all the responsibility of caring for the rabbit. Please do not buy a rabbit solely as a child's pet.
* Small children with rabbits need supervision.
* Rabbits can scratch and bite if harassed. They do not like to be picked up and can easily injure their backs if they fall or are dropped.
* Children may not have the patience necessary to establish a relationship with a rabbit It's a good idea to choose a large breed of rabbit if you have young children as they are generally quieter, sturdier and too large to be picked up.
Where to get a rabbit
* Why not adopt a rescue bunny? Britain is flooded with unwanted pet rabbits awaiting new homes in rescue centres and if you adopt an adult bunny you can be sure of its personality.
* Many pet shops sell young rabbits but if you want a particular breed or colour, locate a reputable breeder via the Pet Plan Rabbit List who will be able to give you advice about your rabbit and show you adult examples of the breed. Wherever you get your rabbit you can be sure that with care, love and respect your rabbit will become a faithful and entertaining friend and member of your family.
Children and Pet Rabbits
A house rabbit may seem like the perfect companion for your child, but this is not always the case. Many children are too young to handle a rabbit appropriately. Bunnies may look cute and cuddly, but they do not behave in ways typified in children's stories or cartoons.
Many rabbits do not enjoy being held and will kick and claw when picked up. Your child may end up with some painful scratches. Your rabbit may end up far worse. Rabbits are delicate creatures and struggling to get out of the grasp of a child (or adult) can leave them with broken bones or other injuries.
Rabbits are timid creatures. Loud noises or children running around can scare them. Your child may be disappointed that bunny does not want to come and play when called. Bunny will be more inclined to come play with your child if he/she is sitting quietly on the floor. Rabbits sometimes want to be left alone to eat or nap, and children need to be reminded of that.
Adopting a rabbit is a very big commitment. Rabbits have a life span of over ten years. If you adopt a baby bunny for your ten year old, be prepared to care for the rabbit when your child has gone off to college. Many shelters have older rabbits that would love a caring forever home.
Children may lose interest in a rabbit when the novelty has worn off or find it burdensome to care for a rabbit. Rabbits are easily litter box trained, but their litter needs to be changed regularly. They require fresh food and water daily. They also require regular grooming and nail clipping. Rabbits are social animals that require a lot of individual attention. They need daily exercise and playtime, and when they are not in a pen or cage, you will have to ensure that your home is bunny proofed. All of these factors need to be taken into consideration when determining if a rabbit is right for your family.
Remember that rabbits are family pets, not children's pets. It takes a family level of commitment to care for and provide a good life for a rabbit.
Many rabbits do not enjoy being held and will kick and claw when picked up. Your child may end up with some painful scratches. Your rabbit may end up far worse. Rabbits are delicate creatures and struggling to get out of the grasp of a child (or adult) can leave them with broken bones or other injuries.
Rabbits are timid creatures. Loud noises or children running around can scare them. Your child may be disappointed that bunny does not want to come and play when called. Bunny will be more inclined to come play with your child if he/she is sitting quietly on the floor. Rabbits sometimes want to be left alone to eat or nap, and children need to be reminded of that.
Adopting a rabbit is a very big commitment. Rabbits have a life span of over ten years. If you adopt a baby bunny for your ten year old, be prepared to care for the rabbit when your child has gone off to college. Many shelters have older rabbits that would love a caring forever home.
Children may lose interest in a rabbit when the novelty has worn off or find it burdensome to care for a rabbit. Rabbits are easily litter box trained, but their litter needs to be changed regularly. They require fresh food and water daily. They also require regular grooming and nail clipping. Rabbits are social animals that require a lot of individual attention. They need daily exercise and playtime, and when they are not in a pen or cage, you will have to ensure that your home is bunny proofed. All of these factors need to be taken into consideration when determining if a rabbit is right for your family.
Remember that rabbits are family pets, not children's pets. It takes a family level of commitment to care for and provide a good life for a rabbit.
Children and Rabbits
OverviewChildren & rabbits are natural companions-right? The answer could be yes, no, or "maybe so" depending on many factors.
Are you thinking of getting a rabbit for your child? Are you trying to figure out how to live with both a rabbit and a child since having a baby? Does your family already have a rabbit? Are you finding that the children and rabbit do not interact as you had expected? Did your family agree that the rabbit would be the "children's responsibility" and now that is not happening?
Then, please read on!
What's a Rabbit Really Like?Many people are surprised and disappointed to find that rabbits rarely conform to the cute-n-cuddly stereotype in children's stories Baby bunnies (and many young adult rabbits) are too busy dashing madly about, squeezing behind furniture, and chewing baseboards and rugs to be held. Also, rabbits are physically delicate animals which means they can be hurt by children picking them up. Because rabbits feel frightened when people pick them up, they kick and struggle which means children can also get hurt Rabbits are also built to react to sudden changes which means they may either run away or try to bite when approached too quickly and too loudly. Stress-related illnesses are common. For these reasons, many children, especially young children, will find it difficult to interact with a rabbit and soon lose interest.
So why do they make good house pets? Rabbits:
are quiet can learn near-perfect litterbox habits
are fun to watch
have different personalities just as individual dogs and cats do
don't need a yard if given plenty of indoor, sun-lit exercise space.
In addition, rabbits are social animals meaning they need the companionship of humans or other animals, although the need may vary among individual rabbits. They play, some more than others. Many can get along with most cats and some dogs when properly introduced. Many enjoy being with people but your family must have patience, understanding, and an acceptance of individual differences to earn their trust.
In order for a family and a rabbit to get to know each other (and for the rabbit's best health), the rabbit needs to be an indoor pet with as much out-of-cage time with the family as possible. If you relegate your rabbit to an outdoor hutch (or even to an indoor cage for most of the day), your family will miss getting to know the special personality of the rabbit.
As the adult, you need to get used to this idea:
The rabbit will be your pet.If your family already has a rabbit whom "n were supposed to care for" and there are problems with this, then try to reconcile yourself to the fact that a rabbit is an adult's responsibility. Rabbits are very sensitive to changes to their feeding, cleaning, and exercise routines. Changes are stressful and may lead to illness. Symptoms of illness are often subtle changes in appetite, behavior, and/or droppings that even mature children will miss. It is unreasonable to expect a child of any age to take responsibility for care of a rabbit (or any pet). The rabbit and your children, as well as the family peace, will benefit greatly from you accepting this notion.
If your family is considering adopting a rabbit, decide how you and the other adults in the household feel about taking on the responsibility of a rabbit. Do the adults want a rabbit as a member of the family? If the rabbit is an all-around family member (lives indoors, gets regular out-of-cage time) and play with the rabbit is supervised, then a child and rabbit can get to know each other and live together happily. Do the adults have an understanding of the basic nature of rabbits and what to expect in terms of time, training, and cost? Or, are you open to finding out? Are the adults willing to make a 5 to 10 yr. commitment?
Unless the adults of the household are enthusiastic, informed, and committed about the work involved, a stuffed animal rabbit is a better choice.
Other Factors: Amount of Time & Patience You Have to Devote.You don't have to be "Super-Adult" to have peaceful coexistence between rabbit and children. But, do you want another "toddler"? Rabbits are a lot like 2 yr. old children-they can be a joy to live with, but:
You will need to spend time in toilet-training i.e.: litterbox training and have tolerance for accidents. Most rabbit people take occasional scattered droppings in stride. There may be an occasional puddle, usually done to mark new territory.
You will need to bunny-proof the parts of your house where the rabbit is allowed to run somewhat similar to toddler-proofing.
You will need to check on your rabbit often and supervise child/rabbit interactions when the rabbit is out for exercise. Three to four hours per day of out-of-cage time is the minimum.
Some of your things may be partially ruined. The amount of chewing and digging that your rabbit does will depend on age, personality, whether spayed/neutered, as well as on what toys you provide him.
Your rabbit will need toys but these can be homemade.
Just like human toddlers, rabbits respond to routines for feeding, playing, and cleaning up. The main thing is to find a routine that is easy for you. If the routine is too difficult, you will begin to look at the rabbit as one more mess-maker.
A rabbit, like a child, responds best to situations that are set up so he will do the right things and receive praise for doing right instead of punishment for doing wrong.
Other Factors: Your Child's Personality If your child is generally easy-going, calm, gentle, and cooperative, you may enjoy having a rabbit as a member of the family. If your child is generally on the loud side, very active, tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequently seems to need reminders about or challenges rules, s/he may find it difficult to build a relationship with a rabbit and you may find that a rabbit is an additional stress.
Other Factors: Number of Children & AgesContrary to Easter-time hype, rabbits are rarely a good choice for a small child (younger than 7 yrs.). The natural exuberance, rambunctiousness, and decibel-level of the average toddler is stressful for most rabbits. Children want a companion they can hold and cuddle; Rabbits need someone who understands that they are ground-loving creatures.
The guidelines below are based on what children of varying ages are genuinely like while keeping in mind the type of household most rabbits do well in. Of course, rabbits and children do vary and there may be exceptions to these guidelines. The most important factor is most likely the adults' attitude and knowledge level (see previous section "The Rabbit Will Be Your Pet").
One Child Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit unless your child fits the calm" description and you are an informed adult who wants to deal with another toddler. It can be done though, if you have the time and patience.
One or More Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. You are likely very busy with active children who need a lot of your attention which will probably leave you little time for managing a rabbit.
One Younger than & One Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. If your younger child is "on the move and into everything, it may be difficult for you & rabbit to live happily even if the older child is of the "calm" type.
1 or More Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Again, your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. Lots of friends coming & going will probably stress out a rabbit. Your children may also be involved in quite a few activities (music lessons, sports, etc.) which may leave little time for the rabbit & family to get to know each other.
One Younger and 1 or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 3. & 4. above, but your household is most likely too busy and noisy to build a friendship with a rabbit. Caring for and training a rabbit may be "just one more thing" that the adults have to do.
Two or More Younger than & One or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 2.-5. above.
One Child Older 'than 7 Years-If you are enthusiastic about accepting responsibility for a rabbit and if your child is the calm type or at least generally accepting of rules for behavior, you and a rabbit would probably find it a joy to live together. If your child if of the loud/active/ challenging rules variety, a rabbit may just increase your stress level.
Other Factors: MoneyAs with any pet, rabbits require a commitment in terms of housing, feeding, and medical care for their natural lives. The biggest initial expenses will be a cage ($100 and up) and a spay ($80-200) or neuter ($75-150) operation if this was not done prior to adoption or purchase. Rabbits do not need annual shots (in the USA at least) but you will usually need to make several visits to a veterinarian when she is sick. You will need to keep supplies of litter, food pellets, fresh vegetables, and hay on hand.
Other Factors: SpaceRabbits should be kept indoors for health, safety, and socialization. You will need space for at least a 30" x 30" or 24" x 36" cage. The cage should be away from TV's, stereos and high noise areas, but not completely isolated from people. Consider which area is most easily bunny-proofed for your rabbit's out-of-cage time.
AllergiesIf any of your family has allergies, you should have testing done to see if there is an allergy to rabbits before you get a rabbit.
New Baby in the House?If a baby is coming, or has come, to your rabbit's house, your rabbit will probably be getting less of your attention for awhile, but neither of you needs to suffer. You may not have time for lots of petting and playing, but focus on maintaining the rabbit's daily care routine. It can be relaxing to have some petting time with your rabbit when baby sleeps. Rabbit will adjust! Your rabbit will be infinitely happier with you than if he is given away to adjust to a new home. Shelters and rescue groups overflowing with dogs, cats, and yes, rabbits, are constant reminders of how difficult it is to find people willing to give an animal a good home for life. Many are initially enthusiastic about getting a new pet, but when the newness wears off and the reality of care sets in, many animals find themselves disposed of for the owners convenience.
Remember!-When baby gets older, rabbit will have added attention from your child (and you) which can be a good thing if you are committed to teaching your child about the rabbit.
Teaching Children to be Rabbit People Whether you have brought a baby home to your rabbit's house or have brought a rabbit home to your child's house, it is well to remember to:
Learn about rabbit behavior/language so you can point out the rabbits feelings about your child's actions.
Choose a time of day when your child is on "low ebb" for teaching your child about the rabbit and for play with the rabbit.
Set your child and the rabbit up for success. Try to anticipate and prevent inappropriate interaction by often showing your child how to interact.
Try not to get into a pattern of always saying "Don't..." and "Stop..." to your child about the rabbit. If your child does something inappropriate, show and talk about what the child can do with the rabbit. Offer choices for behavior and ask "What could you do...?". Otherwise, your child may see the rabbit as something he is always getting in trouble for.
Keep the child away from the rabbit for a short time if the child refuses to stop a behavior that may hurt the rabbit.
Set up the cage so rabbit can get away from the children-"a safe zone". Use child gates in doorways and or turn the cage so the door faces the wall with enough room for rabbit but not the child.
Put the rabbit in a closed-off room when there are lots of playmates or parties. It is often better if the guests "don't know the rabbit exists". --Refrain from having children's friends in to "see the new rabbit" for the first week or so.
Show children's friends where rabbit lives and how to pet at times when only 1 or 2 friends visit, then make sure the rabbit is safe during the visit.
What You Can Do with Different Ages
Sitting/Crawling Infants (6-12 months)
Start teaching the idea that the rabbit is to be respected and treated carefully.
BUNNYRULE # l: Gentle petting. Sit on the floor with child in your lap while you pet and talk to the rabbit. Guide her hand over the rabbit's head, ears, and upper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold her hand flat or use the back of her hand. Do this frequently but no longer than 5 mins. at a time.
BUNNYRULE #2: Leave the rabbit alone when he hops away or goes in his cage. Interpret rabbit's body language for the child ("Oops, he didn't want anymore petting. He wants to eat or take a nap.) Prevent the tendencies to chase a rabbit who has had enough and to bang/poke on the cage by explaining: "Chasing him will make him scared of you." or "Banging on his house scares him." Watch your child carefully and make such explanations at the moment before it looks like the child may engage in such behaviors. Explaining, then redirecting the child's attention works best for this age when inappropriate behavior seems imminent or occurs.
BUNNYRULE #3: Don't touch droppings and litter. Teach the child that the litterbox and droppings that may be found on floor are "dirt". You may have no problem with picking up the dry droppings with your hand, but you don't stick your fingers in your mouth! You may have to change your habits for awhile to teach this concept. A box with a cage floor wire grate works well.
Toddlers (1-2 yrs.)
Continue reinforcing or teach BUNNYRULES 1-3 and add #4. Although unintentional, toddlers are capable of doing real harm to a rabbit. They will need constant supervision and frequent gentle reminders of appropriate behavior. See below for additional notes on rules.
Due to still-developing muscle coordination, toddlers have a hard time keeping fingers out of rabbits' eyes so you may have to insist on two-finger petting or back-of-hand petting.
Closely supervise children's interactions with the rabbit. This is the stage of the child's development when some are prone to bash things with sticks. Children this age also have a hard time not chasing a rabbit who hops away. If she chases the rabbit, the rabbit will learn to be scared of her. Teach respect for the rabbit ending the petting or playing session ('Well, that's all he wanted to do.") and interest the child in another activity.
Children who are interested in toilet-training can understand "that is where the bunny poops and pees".
BUNNYRULE #4:We pet, but don't pick up the rabbit. Explain that it scares the rabbit to be picked up and both of you could get hurt. Explain that Mom or Dad may pick up the rabbit if she needs care.
Explain rabbit language & actions: "Hear her teeth clicking? She likes the petting. See her toss the ball? She's playing." If child gets scratched, explain what the child did to scare or hurt the rabbit and show a better way to act. Redirect loud play to another area ("Look at bunny. She doesn't like the noise.")
Toddlers love to share their snacks with the rabbit so make sure rabbit gets only small amounts proper foods and is not overloaded with cereals and crackers. They also love to help with feeding - scooping & pouring food, taking vegetables and hay to rabbit.
One to Seven-Year Olds
If a 2-yr old has grown up with a rabbit, she can have quite a bit of empathy for and knowledge about a rabbit. Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #1 through 4. Teach by example instead of by a lot of "No's"; Your child will learn most by watching you. If interested, the child may help with feeding and play with the rabbit with your supervision.
Older children
Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #1 through 4. Teach by example and setting up situations for success. Your child may build a friendship with the rabbit by sitting on the floor with the rabbit while doing homework, art work, reading, or watching t.v. The rabbit will eventually come to investigate and to be petted. Older children have lots of other interests and interest in rabbit may come and go. The rabbit's care should continue to be your responsibility, but your child may help with feeding and grooming.
Choosing a RabbitRabbits have different personalities so it is difficult to make generalizations about breeds. In general though, a medium to large breed adult rabbit is usually better for a child. They will command the most respect from a child and are easier to pet because they have larger heads. Dwarf breeds tend to be more excitable, energetic, and aggressive. Baby rabbits are very active, often nippy, and chew everything in sight. Adult rabbits are more easily litter-and house-trained, especially after spaying or neutering. You will also have a better idea of a rabbits personality if you choose an adult who is spayed or neutered.
Adopt a rabbit from a rescue group or local shelters. There are many advantages and you will be helping to combat rabbit overpopulation. Animal shelters euthanize hundreds of unwanted rabbits each year, many less than a year old. Many more die agonizing deaths from neglect and abandonment without ever reaching a shelter. You will be giving one of the many unwanted rabbits a second chance for a loving home while discouraging those who breed rabbits for profit.
Teaching Responsibility: Something to Think AboutMany parents say they want to get a rabbit for their child to teach the child some responsibility. What usually happens is that the child loses interest (not to mention being incapable of sticking to a routine and providing proper care), and the rabbit suffers. The child, at best, learns to feel bad that she has failed and caused suffering. At worst, she learns to resent the animal for the nagging that she is hearing from the adult. Often, the rabbit is given away because "you didn't take care of it". The child learns that life is disposable and that if she waits long enough, someone else will relieve her of her "responsibility'.
So, let your child help with the rabbit, but don't insist. If the child appears interested, encourage her; if she becomes bored, let her move on to the next thing, and you carry on with the rabbit. She learns most of all from watching you-your actions, your tone of voice when you speak to the rabbit, and your attitude. From this she learns the nurturing (responsible) point of view- the patient waiting, the faithful caring, the joyful appreciation and acceptance of a living creature for who it is, not who you wish it to be.
"It is not easy to manage young humans and animals, but when parents find solutions, rather than dispose of an animal for convenience sake, an important concept is communicated to the child. This is alive. This is valuable. You don't throw it away." - Marinell Harriman, Importance of Permanence
This information is based on material from the House Rabbit Society and on the experiences of the author. In addition to working with over 1200 elementary school-aged children during a 12-yr. teaching career, the author has lived with house rabbits since 1988 and in 1992 brought baby Emily home to then-2 yr. old Gracie Rabbit. Three-year-old Emily now lives with Gracie & Jessie Rabbit (& Benny Cat). She has become a responsible child who has empathy for and knowledge about her animals far beyond her years.
Are you thinking of getting a rabbit for your child? Are you trying to figure out how to live with both a rabbit and a child since having a baby? Does your family already have a rabbit? Are you finding that the children and rabbit do not interact as you had expected? Did your family agree that the rabbit would be the "children's responsibility" and now that is not happening?
Then, please read on!
What's a Rabbit Really Like?Many people are surprised and disappointed to find that rabbits rarely conform to the cute-n-cuddly stereotype in children's stories Baby bunnies (and many young adult rabbits) are too busy dashing madly about, squeezing behind furniture, and chewing baseboards and rugs to be held. Also, rabbits are physically delicate animals which means they can be hurt by children picking them up. Because rabbits feel frightened when people pick them up, they kick and struggle which means children can also get hurt Rabbits are also built to react to sudden changes which means they may either run away or try to bite when approached too quickly and too loudly. Stress-related illnesses are common. For these reasons, many children, especially young children, will find it difficult to interact with a rabbit and soon lose interest.
So why do they make good house pets? Rabbits:
are quiet can learn near-perfect litterbox habits
are fun to watch
have different personalities just as individual dogs and cats do
don't need a yard if given plenty of indoor, sun-lit exercise space.
In addition, rabbits are social animals meaning they need the companionship of humans or other animals, although the need may vary among individual rabbits. They play, some more than others. Many can get along with most cats and some dogs when properly introduced. Many enjoy being with people but your family must have patience, understanding, and an acceptance of individual differences to earn their trust.
In order for a family and a rabbit to get to know each other (and for the rabbit's best health), the rabbit needs to be an indoor pet with as much out-of-cage time with the family as possible. If you relegate your rabbit to an outdoor hutch (or even to an indoor cage for most of the day), your family will miss getting to know the special personality of the rabbit.
As the adult, you need to get used to this idea:
The rabbit will be your pet.If your family already has a rabbit whom "n were supposed to care for" and there are problems with this, then try to reconcile yourself to the fact that a rabbit is an adult's responsibility. Rabbits are very sensitive to changes to their feeding, cleaning, and exercise routines. Changes are stressful and may lead to illness. Symptoms of illness are often subtle changes in appetite, behavior, and/or droppings that even mature children will miss. It is unreasonable to expect a child of any age to take responsibility for care of a rabbit (or any pet). The rabbit and your children, as well as the family peace, will benefit greatly from you accepting this notion.
If your family is considering adopting a rabbit, decide how you and the other adults in the household feel about taking on the responsibility of a rabbit. Do the adults want a rabbit as a member of the family? If the rabbit is an all-around family member (lives indoors, gets regular out-of-cage time) and play with the rabbit is supervised, then a child and rabbit can get to know each other and live together happily. Do the adults have an understanding of the basic nature of rabbits and what to expect in terms of time, training, and cost? Or, are you open to finding out? Are the adults willing to make a 5 to 10 yr. commitment?
Unless the adults of the household are enthusiastic, informed, and committed about the work involved, a stuffed animal rabbit is a better choice.
Other Factors: Amount of Time & Patience You Have to Devote.You don't have to be "Super-Adult" to have peaceful coexistence between rabbit and children. But, do you want another "toddler"? Rabbits are a lot like 2 yr. old children-they can be a joy to live with, but:
You will need to spend time in toilet-training i.e.: litterbox training and have tolerance for accidents. Most rabbit people take occasional scattered droppings in stride. There may be an occasional puddle, usually done to mark new territory.
You will need to bunny-proof the parts of your house where the rabbit is allowed to run somewhat similar to toddler-proofing.
You will need to check on your rabbit often and supervise child/rabbit interactions when the rabbit is out for exercise. Three to four hours per day of out-of-cage time is the minimum.
Some of your things may be partially ruined. The amount of chewing and digging that your rabbit does will depend on age, personality, whether spayed/neutered, as well as on what toys you provide him.
Your rabbit will need toys but these can be homemade.
Just like human toddlers, rabbits respond to routines for feeding, playing, and cleaning up. The main thing is to find a routine that is easy for you. If the routine is too difficult, you will begin to look at the rabbit as one more mess-maker.
A rabbit, like a child, responds best to situations that are set up so he will do the right things and receive praise for doing right instead of punishment for doing wrong.
Other Factors: Your Child's Personality If your child is generally easy-going, calm, gentle, and cooperative, you may enjoy having a rabbit as a member of the family. If your child is generally on the loud side, very active, tends to interact physically/aggressively, or frequently seems to need reminders about or challenges rules, s/he may find it difficult to build a relationship with a rabbit and you may find that a rabbit is an additional stress.
Other Factors: Number of Children & AgesContrary to Easter-time hype, rabbits are rarely a good choice for a small child (younger than 7 yrs.). The natural exuberance, rambunctiousness, and decibel-level of the average toddler is stressful for most rabbits. Children want a companion they can hold and cuddle; Rabbits need someone who understands that they are ground-loving creatures.
The guidelines below are based on what children of varying ages are genuinely like while keeping in mind the type of household most rabbits do well in. Of course, rabbits and children do vary and there may be exceptions to these guidelines. The most important factor is most likely the adults' attitude and knowledge level (see previous section "The Rabbit Will Be Your Pet").
One Child Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit unless your child fits the calm" description and you are an informed adult who wants to deal with another toddler. It can be done though, if you have the time and patience.
One or More Younger than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. You are likely very busy with active children who need a lot of your attention which will probably leave you little time for managing a rabbit.
One Younger than & One Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. If your younger child is "on the move and into everything, it may be difficult for you & rabbit to live happily even if the older child is of the "calm" type.
1 or More Older than 7 Years-Perhaps. Again, your time, the children's personalities, and the general noise/activity level of your household should be considered. Lots of friends coming & going will probably stress out a rabbit. Your children may also be involved in quite a few activities (music lessons, sports, etc.) which may leave little time for the rabbit & family to get to know each other.
One Younger and 1 or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 3. & 4. above, but your household is most likely too busy and noisy to build a friendship with a rabbit. Caring for and training a rabbit may be "just one more thing" that the adults have to do.
Two or More Younger than & One or More Older than 7 Years-Probably shouldn't get a rabbit. Consider the information in 2.-5. above.
One Child Older 'than 7 Years-If you are enthusiastic about accepting responsibility for a rabbit and if your child is the calm type or at least generally accepting of rules for behavior, you and a rabbit would probably find it a joy to live together. If your child if of the loud/active/ challenging rules variety, a rabbit may just increase your stress level.
Other Factors: MoneyAs with any pet, rabbits require a commitment in terms of housing, feeding, and medical care for their natural lives. The biggest initial expenses will be a cage ($100 and up) and a spay ($80-200) or neuter ($75-150) operation if this was not done prior to adoption or purchase. Rabbits do not need annual shots (in the USA at least) but you will usually need to make several visits to a veterinarian when she is sick. You will need to keep supplies of litter, food pellets, fresh vegetables, and hay on hand.
Other Factors: SpaceRabbits should be kept indoors for health, safety, and socialization. You will need space for at least a 30" x 30" or 24" x 36" cage. The cage should be away from TV's, stereos and high noise areas, but not completely isolated from people. Consider which area is most easily bunny-proofed for your rabbit's out-of-cage time.
AllergiesIf any of your family has allergies, you should have testing done to see if there is an allergy to rabbits before you get a rabbit.
New Baby in the House?If a baby is coming, or has come, to your rabbit's house, your rabbit will probably be getting less of your attention for awhile, but neither of you needs to suffer. You may not have time for lots of petting and playing, but focus on maintaining the rabbit's daily care routine. It can be relaxing to have some petting time with your rabbit when baby sleeps. Rabbit will adjust! Your rabbit will be infinitely happier with you than if he is given away to adjust to a new home. Shelters and rescue groups overflowing with dogs, cats, and yes, rabbits, are constant reminders of how difficult it is to find people willing to give an animal a good home for life. Many are initially enthusiastic about getting a new pet, but when the newness wears off and the reality of care sets in, many animals find themselves disposed of for the owners convenience.
Remember!-When baby gets older, rabbit will have added attention from your child (and you) which can be a good thing if you are committed to teaching your child about the rabbit.
Teaching Children to be Rabbit People Whether you have brought a baby home to your rabbit's house or have brought a rabbit home to your child's house, it is well to remember to:
Learn about rabbit behavior/language so you can point out the rabbits feelings about your child's actions.
Choose a time of day when your child is on "low ebb" for teaching your child about the rabbit and for play with the rabbit.
Set your child and the rabbit up for success. Try to anticipate and prevent inappropriate interaction by often showing your child how to interact.
Try not to get into a pattern of always saying "Don't..." and "Stop..." to your child about the rabbit. If your child does something inappropriate, show and talk about what the child can do with the rabbit. Offer choices for behavior and ask "What could you do...?". Otherwise, your child may see the rabbit as something he is always getting in trouble for.
Keep the child away from the rabbit for a short time if the child refuses to stop a behavior that may hurt the rabbit.
Set up the cage so rabbit can get away from the children-"a safe zone". Use child gates in doorways and or turn the cage so the door faces the wall with enough room for rabbit but not the child.
Put the rabbit in a closed-off room when there are lots of playmates or parties. It is often better if the guests "don't know the rabbit exists". --Refrain from having children's friends in to "see the new rabbit" for the first week or so.
Show children's friends where rabbit lives and how to pet at times when only 1 or 2 friends visit, then make sure the rabbit is safe during the visit.
What You Can Do with Different Ages
Sitting/Crawling Infants (6-12 months)
Start teaching the idea that the rabbit is to be respected and treated carefully.
BUNNYRULE # l: Gentle petting. Sit on the floor with child in your lap while you pet and talk to the rabbit. Guide her hand over the rabbit's head, ears, and upper back. To prevent fur-grabbing, hold her hand flat or use the back of her hand. Do this frequently but no longer than 5 mins. at a time.
BUNNYRULE #2: Leave the rabbit alone when he hops away or goes in his cage. Interpret rabbit's body language for the child ("Oops, he didn't want anymore petting. He wants to eat or take a nap.) Prevent the tendencies to chase a rabbit who has had enough and to bang/poke on the cage by explaining: "Chasing him will make him scared of you." or "Banging on his house scares him." Watch your child carefully and make such explanations at the moment before it looks like the child may engage in such behaviors. Explaining, then redirecting the child's attention works best for this age when inappropriate behavior seems imminent or occurs.
BUNNYRULE #3: Don't touch droppings and litter. Teach the child that the litterbox and droppings that may be found on floor are "dirt". You may have no problem with picking up the dry droppings with your hand, but you don't stick your fingers in your mouth! You may have to change your habits for awhile to teach this concept. A box with a cage floor wire grate works well.
Toddlers (1-2 yrs.)
Continue reinforcing or teach BUNNYRULES 1-3 and add #4. Although unintentional, toddlers are capable of doing real harm to a rabbit. They will need constant supervision and frequent gentle reminders of appropriate behavior. See below for additional notes on rules.
Due to still-developing muscle coordination, toddlers have a hard time keeping fingers out of rabbits' eyes so you may have to insist on two-finger petting or back-of-hand petting.
Closely supervise children's interactions with the rabbit. This is the stage of the child's development when some are prone to bash things with sticks. Children this age also have a hard time not chasing a rabbit who hops away. If she chases the rabbit, the rabbit will learn to be scared of her. Teach respect for the rabbit ending the petting or playing session ('Well, that's all he wanted to do.") and interest the child in another activity.
Children who are interested in toilet-training can understand "that is where the bunny poops and pees".
BUNNYRULE #4:We pet, but don't pick up the rabbit. Explain that it scares the rabbit to be picked up and both of you could get hurt. Explain that Mom or Dad may pick up the rabbit if she needs care.
Explain rabbit language & actions: "Hear her teeth clicking? She likes the petting. See her toss the ball? She's playing." If child gets scratched, explain what the child did to scare or hurt the rabbit and show a better way to act. Redirect loud play to another area ("Look at bunny. She doesn't like the noise.")
Toddlers love to share their snacks with the rabbit so make sure rabbit gets only small amounts proper foods and is not overloaded with cereals and crackers. They also love to help with feeding - scooping & pouring food, taking vegetables and hay to rabbit.
One to Seven-Year Olds
If a 2-yr old has grown up with a rabbit, she can have quite a bit of empathy for and knowledge about a rabbit. Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #1 through 4. Teach by example instead of by a lot of "No's"; Your child will learn most by watching you. If interested, the child may help with feeding and play with the rabbit with your supervision.
Older children
Continue or teach BUNNYRULES #1 through 4. Teach by example and setting up situations for success. Your child may build a friendship with the rabbit by sitting on the floor with the rabbit while doing homework, art work, reading, or watching t.v. The rabbit will eventually come to investigate and to be petted. Older children have lots of other interests and interest in rabbit may come and go. The rabbit's care should continue to be your responsibility, but your child may help with feeding and grooming.
Choosing a RabbitRabbits have different personalities so it is difficult to make generalizations about breeds. In general though, a medium to large breed adult rabbit is usually better for a child. They will command the most respect from a child and are easier to pet because they have larger heads. Dwarf breeds tend to be more excitable, energetic, and aggressive. Baby rabbits are very active, often nippy, and chew everything in sight. Adult rabbits are more easily litter-and house-trained, especially after spaying or neutering. You will also have a better idea of a rabbits personality if you choose an adult who is spayed or neutered.
Adopt a rabbit from a rescue group or local shelters. There are many advantages and you will be helping to combat rabbit overpopulation. Animal shelters euthanize hundreds of unwanted rabbits each year, many less than a year old. Many more die agonizing deaths from neglect and abandonment without ever reaching a shelter. You will be giving one of the many unwanted rabbits a second chance for a loving home while discouraging those who breed rabbits for profit.
Teaching Responsibility: Something to Think AboutMany parents say they want to get a rabbit for their child to teach the child some responsibility. What usually happens is that the child loses interest (not to mention being incapable of sticking to a routine and providing proper care), and the rabbit suffers. The child, at best, learns to feel bad that she has failed and caused suffering. At worst, she learns to resent the animal for the nagging that she is hearing from the adult. Often, the rabbit is given away because "you didn't take care of it". The child learns that life is disposable and that if she waits long enough, someone else will relieve her of her "responsibility'.
So, let your child help with the rabbit, but don't insist. If the child appears interested, encourage her; if she becomes bored, let her move on to the next thing, and you carry on with the rabbit. She learns most of all from watching you-your actions, your tone of voice when you speak to the rabbit, and your attitude. From this she learns the nurturing (responsible) point of view- the patient waiting, the faithful caring, the joyful appreciation and acceptance of a living creature for who it is, not who you wish it to be.
"It is not easy to manage young humans and animals, but when parents find solutions, rather than dispose of an animal for convenience sake, an important concept is communicated to the child. This is alive. This is valuable. You don't throw it away." - Marinell Harriman, Importance of Permanence
This information is based on material from the House Rabbit Society and on the experiences of the author. In addition to working with over 1200 elementary school-aged children during a 12-yr. teaching career, the author has lived with house rabbits since 1988 and in 1992 brought baby Emily home to then-2 yr. old Gracie Rabbit. Three-year-old Emily now lives with Gracie & Jessie Rabbit (& Benny Cat). She has become a responsible child who has empathy for and knowledge about her animals far beyond her years.
Care For Animals
In the Kids Corner you will find Petpourri, a collection of puzzles, games, and "playsheets" that will provide hours of entertainment while teaching children about responsible pet ownership
The AVMA has created a colorful, two-sided poster that illustrates how veterinarians protect the health of animals, people, and the environment. Teachers in grades 4-7 can use it to complement a variety of science lessons. Parents, counselors, and veterinarians will find it a useful tool for sharing information about how veterinarians impact both animal and human health.Click here to download the PDF versions for free or for ordering information.
Paws For Pets by Dr. Gail C. Golab offers valuable information for the new pet owner, including seasonal pet health tips to help keep your pet healthy all year long
The AVMA has created a colorful, two-sided poster that illustrates how veterinarians protect the health of animals, people, and the environment. Teachers in grades 4-7 can use it to complement a variety of science lessons. Parents, counselors, and veterinarians will find it a useful tool for sharing information about how veterinarians impact both animal and human health.Click here to download the PDF versions for free or for ordering information.
Paws For Pets by Dr. Gail C. Golab offers valuable information for the new pet owner, including seasonal pet health tips to help keep your pet healthy all year long
Animals
American Kennel ClubA great selection of breeds, photos, articles, and more for dog lovers. Includes a special section just for kids, with information about responsible dog ownership and fun activity and coloring pages.
Animal NamesYou may know that a doe is a female deer, but did you know that a female swan is called a pen? You'll find many more names for animals, their babies and the groups they live in at this site, plus information printouts on each.
Animal PlanetNo matter what your favorite animal is, there's a good chance you'll find it at Animal Planet. Explore animals by subject, learn more about your dog or cat with the pet guides available, play fun games, and much more.
Animals of the WorldAt this site you can learn about mammals, reptiles, insects, birds, and fish, and then play games to test your knowledge.
AnimalandIf you love animals, you'll find a lot to like about this site! Read animal stories, watch a cartoon, or get tips on how to take care of your pet with one of the many pet care guides available. You'll also find games, news, and articles about careers in the animal field.
Bats Bats EverywhereLearn about bats, where they live, how they help humans, common bat myths, what they eat and lots of other batty facts.
The Birmingham ZooSee RealVideo movies of the animals, visit and learn about the animals, and go on an African Safari. Includes animal pictures you can print and color.
Bow Wow MeowJust get a new puppy or kitten and can't quite figure out what to name it? Get ideas from this site by searching for pet names by category or alphabetically. Also includes top 20 names, a photo gallery, and even a dog age calculator!
Cats! Wild to MildLearn about cat facts, biology and behavior. Traces the history of the cat from wild animals to America's number one pet. Includes curriculum for teachers.
Creature FeatureLearn about animals like hippos, cheetahs, koalas, and more at this great National Geographic site. You'll find lots of fun facts on each animal, plus pictures, videos, and even postcards you can send to a friend.
Discover the Oakland ZooHome to over 300 animals from 50 different species. Study pictures, descriptions, facts, go on a safari, and play Animal Scramble.
Dog Training BasicsProfessional dog trainer Pam Young shows you her secrets for encouraging good dog behavior, properly training your pet, and how to keep your dog safe and happy. Includes words of wisdom, and other helpful tips.
Endangered!The American Museum of Natural History presents an exhibition which lists endangered animals, and discusses the causes for their disappearance.
Exploratorium: FrogsDid you know that the ancestors of modern frogs roamed the earth for 190 million years? Learn more about frogs, the myths surrounding them, the research done by scientists, and more, at this information-rich site.
Extreme ScienceWhere is the deepest spot in the ocean? Which creature is the strongest? Want to know what the fastest land animal is? Take a look at this site for answers to these and other scientific record-breakers!
Fish FAQDo fish sleep? Are sharks always hungry? You can find the answers to these and hundreds of other interesting questions at this site.
FroglandLike frogs? Then you're in luck, because we've got a great site for you! You'll learn all kinds of fun frog facts, find tips on how to care for a pet frog, play games, read a frog fable, view frog art, color, and more. Leap on over!
Grizzly PeopleTimothy Treadwell has lived among the Alaskan grizzly each year during the spring to autumn months since the late 1980s. Learn about the animals he studies and see his photos and videos. Includes a special kids section, bear safety tips, and more.
Horse BreedsHere's a great resource for horse lovers! From Abyssinian to Zhemaichu, there are over 200 breeds of horses you can learn about at this site. Most are accompanied by multiple photographs and detailed descriptions.
How to Love Your DogThree collies show you how to care for a dog, what they cost and need, basic training, how to teach them tricks, and lots more. Great for dog lovers.
Infrared ZooThe Infrared Zoo shows what animals look like in a whole different light. See what birds, reptiles, and mammals look like in the infrared, and learn how animals use fur, blubber, and feathers to insulate themselves.
Kids Go Wild!Did you know that a cheetah can run nearly 70 miles per hour? Learn more about the cheetah and other wild animals through facts and photos, play games and color online, and learn about the threat of extinction some animals face. From the Wildlife Conservation Society.
Kip and Co.Join Kip the koala to learn about Australian wildlife like the kangaroo, emu, and kookaburra. You'll also find online games, an interactive story, and pictures that you can print and color.
Kratts' CreaturesExplore the fascinating and funny 'creaturnalities' of creatures the world over. Includes an episode guide, creature of the week quiz, and more.
OWLkids OnlinePuzzles, facts, animals, science activities, jokes, fun and more with age specific areas for kids and parents.
PBS: NatureEach week, PBS presents an excellent web piece based on the TV series Nature. Subjects cover all aspects of nature, animals, and even pets. Included are teacher's guides, videos, games, previous features, and more.
Penny's PlaceFollows the development of a puppy named Penny who is training to be a guide dog. Shows how puppies are selected to be guide dogs and more.
Planet PetsVisit this site to find thousands of pet photos and descriptions, along with tips on grooming, care, and the costs associated with owning a specific pet.
Print 'n' Go Coloring BookThis National Geographic coloring book site has dozens of great animal pictures for you to color, featuring everything from owls to octopuses, and cheetahs to chimps!
The Rudiments of Wisdom EncyclopediaIncludes thousands of cartoons covering almost anything you'd like to know! Originally drawn over a period of 14 years for the Observer newspaper, you'll find information on animals, art, entertainment, music, science, sports and 16 other subjects.
Sounds of the World's AnimalsA cow says "moo" right? Not in all languages! See how people from around the world interpret and say animal sounds in their language. Then listen to the animal itself for the animal's expert opinion of how it sounds!
Switcheroo ZooVisit this Zoo-illogical park and create silly creatures by switching the head, legs, and tails with those of other animals. Over 6500 wacky combinations are possible.
Tama and Friends visit PetfinderLooking for a pet? Petfinder.com helps families find and adopt one at their local animal shelter. Includes tips and articles on how to select a pet, an easy-to-use search tool, and of course, fun game and coloring activities with Tama and Friends!
Teletubbies - Animal SoundsThe Tubby Control Panel makes different animal sounds when the levers are pulled. There are 6 animals to choose from. Again, again!
Woof ! It's a Dog's LifeHere's a nice site for dog lovers with tips on how to train your pet, stories, a quiz, and more. Based on the PBS television series.
ZoboomafooJoin the Kratt Brothers, Zoboomafoo, and the rest of the Zobooland gang for animal games, coloring, and more. Some games require Shockwave
Animal NamesYou may know that a doe is a female deer, but did you know that a female swan is called a pen? You'll find many more names for animals, their babies and the groups they live in at this site, plus information printouts on each.
Animal PlanetNo matter what your favorite animal is, there's a good chance you'll find it at Animal Planet. Explore animals by subject, learn more about your dog or cat with the pet guides available, play fun games, and much more.
Animals of the WorldAt this site you can learn about mammals, reptiles, insects, birds, and fish, and then play games to test your knowledge.
AnimalandIf you love animals, you'll find a lot to like about this site! Read animal stories, watch a cartoon, or get tips on how to take care of your pet with one of the many pet care guides available. You'll also find games, news, and articles about careers in the animal field.
Bats Bats EverywhereLearn about bats, where they live, how they help humans, common bat myths, what they eat and lots of other batty facts.
The Birmingham ZooSee RealVideo movies of the animals, visit and learn about the animals, and go on an African Safari. Includes animal pictures you can print and color.
Bow Wow MeowJust get a new puppy or kitten and can't quite figure out what to name it? Get ideas from this site by searching for pet names by category or alphabetically. Also includes top 20 names, a photo gallery, and even a dog age calculator!
Cats! Wild to MildLearn about cat facts, biology and behavior. Traces the history of the cat from wild animals to America's number one pet. Includes curriculum for teachers.
Creature FeatureLearn about animals like hippos, cheetahs, koalas, and more at this great National Geographic site. You'll find lots of fun facts on each animal, plus pictures, videos, and even postcards you can send to a friend.
Discover the Oakland ZooHome to over 300 animals from 50 different species. Study pictures, descriptions, facts, go on a safari, and play Animal Scramble.
Dog Training BasicsProfessional dog trainer Pam Young shows you her secrets for encouraging good dog behavior, properly training your pet, and how to keep your dog safe and happy. Includes words of wisdom, and other helpful tips.
Endangered!The American Museum of Natural History presents an exhibition which lists endangered animals, and discusses the causes for their disappearance.
Exploratorium: FrogsDid you know that the ancestors of modern frogs roamed the earth for 190 million years? Learn more about frogs, the myths surrounding them, the research done by scientists, and more, at this information-rich site.
Extreme ScienceWhere is the deepest spot in the ocean? Which creature is the strongest? Want to know what the fastest land animal is? Take a look at this site for answers to these and other scientific record-breakers!
Fish FAQDo fish sleep? Are sharks always hungry? You can find the answers to these and hundreds of other interesting questions at this site.
FroglandLike frogs? Then you're in luck, because we've got a great site for you! You'll learn all kinds of fun frog facts, find tips on how to care for a pet frog, play games, read a frog fable, view frog art, color, and more. Leap on over!
Grizzly PeopleTimothy Treadwell has lived among the Alaskan grizzly each year during the spring to autumn months since the late 1980s. Learn about the animals he studies and see his photos and videos. Includes a special kids section, bear safety tips, and more.
Horse BreedsHere's a great resource for horse lovers! From Abyssinian to Zhemaichu, there are over 200 breeds of horses you can learn about at this site. Most are accompanied by multiple photographs and detailed descriptions.
How to Love Your DogThree collies show you how to care for a dog, what they cost and need, basic training, how to teach them tricks, and lots more. Great for dog lovers.
Infrared ZooThe Infrared Zoo shows what animals look like in a whole different light. See what birds, reptiles, and mammals look like in the infrared, and learn how animals use fur, blubber, and feathers to insulate themselves.
Kids Go Wild!Did you know that a cheetah can run nearly 70 miles per hour? Learn more about the cheetah and other wild animals through facts and photos, play games and color online, and learn about the threat of extinction some animals face. From the Wildlife Conservation Society.
Kip and Co.Join Kip the koala to learn about Australian wildlife like the kangaroo, emu, and kookaburra. You'll also find online games, an interactive story, and pictures that you can print and color.
Kratts' CreaturesExplore the fascinating and funny 'creaturnalities' of creatures the world over. Includes an episode guide, creature of the week quiz, and more.
OWLkids OnlinePuzzles, facts, animals, science activities, jokes, fun and more with age specific areas for kids and parents.
PBS: NatureEach week, PBS presents an excellent web piece based on the TV series Nature. Subjects cover all aspects of nature, animals, and even pets. Included are teacher's guides, videos, games, previous features, and more.
Penny's PlaceFollows the development of a puppy named Penny who is training to be a guide dog. Shows how puppies are selected to be guide dogs and more.
Planet PetsVisit this site to find thousands of pet photos and descriptions, along with tips on grooming, care, and the costs associated with owning a specific pet.
Print 'n' Go Coloring BookThis National Geographic coloring book site has dozens of great animal pictures for you to color, featuring everything from owls to octopuses, and cheetahs to chimps!
The Rudiments of Wisdom EncyclopediaIncludes thousands of cartoons covering almost anything you'd like to know! Originally drawn over a period of 14 years for the Observer newspaper, you'll find information on animals, art, entertainment, music, science, sports and 16 other subjects.
Sounds of the World's AnimalsA cow says "moo" right? Not in all languages! See how people from around the world interpret and say animal sounds in their language. Then listen to the animal itself for the animal's expert opinion of how it sounds!
Switcheroo ZooVisit this Zoo-illogical park and create silly creatures by switching the head, legs, and tails with those of other animals. Over 6500 wacky combinations are possible.
Tama and Friends visit PetfinderLooking for a pet? Petfinder.com helps families find and adopt one at their local animal shelter. Includes tips and articles on how to select a pet, an easy-to-use search tool, and of course, fun game and coloring activities with Tama and Friends!
Teletubbies - Animal SoundsThe Tubby Control Panel makes different animal sounds when the levers are pulled. There are 6 animals to choose from. Again, again!
Woof ! It's a Dog's LifeHere's a nice site for dog lovers with tips on how to train your pet, stories, a quiz, and more. Based on the PBS television series.
ZoboomafooJoin the Kratt Brothers, Zoboomafoo, and the rest of the Zobooland gang for animal games, coloring, and more. Some games require Shockwave
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
The History of The Australian Cattle Dog
The Australian Cattle Dog is really a relatively new breed and as such, numerous records were kept on its development. The writings of Mr. Robert Kaleski 
are invaluable for researching the history of the development of the ACD in its native Australia. Robert Kaleski fell in love with the breed at the age of sixteen and spent his entire life breeding and studying the Australian Cattle Dog.
Despite the availability of many documents about the development of the Australian Cattle Dog, there is continuing controversy over which breeds were actually used in its development. One of the difficulties in researching the history of this breed is that there was a lot of experimentation going on in trying to find the perfect combination of dogs to make up the ultimate heeler that could live and work in the Australian outback. While it is said that certain breeds were tried as a cross and subsequently found unsuitable (Bull Terrier being the most notable), I cannot bring myself to believe that all progeny of that experiment were truly taken out of all the breeding programs. Another problem lies in the names used for the breeds used back then versus the names used now. A "collie" in the mid-1800's is not the "Lassie-dog" that we think of when we hear the name collie. I think that this factor has led to a lot of confusion in the translation of early writings.
The Need for Stamina
The early settlers in Australia brought with them both livestock and the dogs they used to work them. These sheepdog-type-canines were wonderful herders in the British Isles, but were not built to withstand the rigors of the rugged Australian outback. These dogs were known as "Smithfields", a name taken from the central Smithfield meat markets of London. Smithfields were described generally as heavy, black, flop-eared, bob-tailed dogs with white around the neck and sometimes on the tip of the tail or on the feet. These dogs were decent herders but their heavy coat and bulk resulted in a lack of stamina when the
colonizers moved inland toward the harsher climates of the outback. Ranchers complained that the Smithfield's bite was too severe and rustlers complained that they were too noisy when working.The first attempt at breeding a Cattle Dog suitable for the conditions in Australia came from a man by the name of Timmins, who decided to cross the Smithfield with the native Australian Dingo. Timmins was eager to breed a silent working dog. The resulting dogs were a red bob-tailed breed that became known as "Timmins Biters," and they were indeed silent workers. Unfortunately, their name was appropriate, as it was quickly found that these dogs were severe biters who could not be trusted not to kill calves when out of their owner's sight.
The next breed the ranchers tried crossing with the Dingo were purebred rough collies. It was found that these dogs had a tendency to bark at the head of cattle and work them into a frenzy. This was of particular concern when the feeder cattle being taken to market were several pounds lighter than they should have been because of all the extra exercise.
HALL'S HEELERS
In 1840, Mr. Thomas Hall of Muswelbrook, New South Wales imported a couple of Blue Smooth Highland Collies. It should be noted that these dogs were not the rough or smooth collies we think of today. They are described as blue merle dogs similar to either the border collies or bearded collies of today. These Blue Smooth Highland Collies were a bit better than the previous herding dogs they had tried, but they still had the heading habits that were found in the earlier collies. Mr. Hall took the progeny of these two collies and crossed them with the Dingo. The resulting dogs were either blue or red speckled pups that became known as "Hall's Heelers". These dogs, described as blue or red thickset dingoes, crept up on the livestock silently, nipped and then would immediately 'clap' or flatten to the ground to avoid the backlashing kick of an angry bovine. Mr. Hall continued his experimental Highland Collie-Dingo breedings until his death in 1870.
THOMAS BENTLEY'S DOG
Mr. Tom Bentley's dog was said to have been of the pure Hall strain and was both beautifully built and an incredible worker. Bentley's Dog (known by only that name) was reportedly widely used at stud to retain these outstanding characteristics. It is said that the white blaze seen on the forehead of all Australian Cattle Dogs today (now refered to as a "Bentley Mark") and the black tail-root spot seen occasionally in blue dogs can be directly attributed to Tom Bentley's dog.
MORE NEW BLOOD
Word spread of these "Hall's Heelers", now also referred to as "Blue Heelers" or "Queensland Heelers", and in the early 1870's a butcher named Fred Davis brought a pair of Hall's dogs to work in the stockyards of Sydney. It was there that Mr. Davis and his colleagues infused a bit of Bull Terrier blood into the dogs for added tenacity. These dogs were gradually fazed out of the breeding programs because they were said to grip the cattle and not let go and because they had limited mobility due to their stocky build. Evidence of the Bull Terrier influence is occasionally evident even in today's ACDs.Two brothers, Jack and Harry Bagust, went in another direction with the crossing of these dogs. They bred a Hall's Heeler bitch to an imported Dalmatian, with the intent of instilling the love for horses and faithfulness to their master into the breed. This cross was successful, but it cost the breed some of its working ability. The Bagusts admired the working ability of the Black and Tan Kelpie, a breed in development itself at the time, and added this blood to these Blue and Red Heelers. This final infusion set the breed type, gave the blue dogs the distinguishable tan "points", gave the red dogs deep red markings instead of black and were the direct forebearers of today's Australian Cattle Dog.
The breeders of the day included Jack and Harry Bagust, Alex Davis (son of Fred) and Robert Kaleski. These men continued the breeding of "Queensland Heelers" or "Queensland Blue Heelers" and kept only the pups that were closest to the ideal and culled the rest. In 1902 Robert Kaleski drew up the first breed standard for the Cattle Dog. He based his standard on the Dingo type, believing that this was the ideal to strive for in the conditions of the country in which it was developed. The breed became known as the Australian Heeler and, eventually, as the Australian Cattle Dog. Robert Kaleski continued to preserve, write about and champion the breed until his death in 1961.
The McNiven Dogs
In the 1940's, Dr. Allan McNiven, an Australian veterinarian, decided to infuse Dingo blood back into the Australian Cattle Dog as he felt the breed was getting soft in both temperament and body. McNiven's dogs were imported heavily by ranchers in the United States for work with cattle and other livestock. When the Royal Agricultural Society Kennel Council (R.A.S.K.C.) discovered that Dr. McNiven was crossing purebreds with the Dingo, he was banned from showing and all his dogs were removed from the registry.
The Australian Cattle Dog in the U.S.
In the late 1960's, two Australian Cattle Dog owners, Esther Ekman and Christina Smith-Risk, sat ringside at a California dog show and discussed their love for the breed. Talk turned to forming a parent club for the breed in the United States with the express purpose of drawing up a breed standard and moving the Australian Cattle Dog out of the American Kennel Club's (AKC's) Miscellaneous Group. Seeing as it takes at least two members to form a club, the Australian Cattle Dog Club of America (first named "The Queensland Heeler Club of America") was born.
Chris and Esther set out to find other like-minded fans of the breed and in two year's time they had a total of 12 members or families interested in pursuing the recognition of the Australian Cattle Dog by the AKC.The American Kennel Club explained to this group that all dogs entered into their stud books must be traced directly back to those dogs registered by in Australia. As the potential new club members started doing extensive research, they discovered that many of their dogs were not actually traceable to the registered dogs in Australia. At this point, the members faced a painful decision as most of the dogs they had were not going to be able to be entered into the AKC stud books as purebred Australian Cattle Dogs. Putting their love for the breed and their desire to do justice to its purebred heritage before their own personal investments, they took a firm stand that all dogs accepted into this initial registry must be traceable on paper to their Australian roots. This meant that many of the dogs currently in the U.S. as "Australian Heelers" or "Queensland Heelers" were seen as not truly purebred, as many traced their ancestry to McNiven's dogs or other suspected crosses.
The American Kennel Club took over the breed registry in 1979 and the Australian Cattle Dog was fully recognized in 1980.
It should be noted that there are several other registry bodies in the United States that have registered this breed since the decision in the 1960's to use the AKC as the true keeper of the Australian Cattle Dog studbooks. Registries other than the AKC, however, do not require any sort of documentation that these "Heelers" were at all truly traceable to pure roots. Many of these dogs sprang from McNiven's dogs or other crosses and cannot be guaranteed to be truly pure Australian Cattle Dogs. These dogs can be registered with the American Kennel Club under their Indefinite Listing Privilege (ILP) program as long as they are spayed or neutered.
The Australian Cattle Dog Club of America (ACDCA) is still a vital force in the promotion and protection of this breed. Membership is open to anyone with a love for or interest in ACDs. The ACDCA sponsors yearly National Specialties, in which a week of 
activities highlights the versatility of this marvelous breed.
The Australian Cattle Dog Today
The versatility and intelligence of the Australian Cattle Dog is quite remarkable. These dogs are capable of performing many different jobs with and for their human companions. The Australian Cattle Dog's trainability, intelligence and problem solving skills coupled with their medium-size-build, overall health and easy to care for coat make them a delightful companion. When the Australian Cattle Dog was admitted to the American Kennel Club in 1980, it became fully eligible for participating in AKC sponsored activities and competitions such as herding, obedience, agility and tracking. See the Activities page for more information about these events.Australian Cattle Dog Breeders
Find your perfect Australian Cattle Dog puppy for sale or adult dog from our reputable, responsible Australian Cattle Dog breeder listings. Locate dogs for sale, puppies for sale, dog breeders, and more. Our Australian Cattle Dog breeders can also refer you on to other dog breeders they know of, perhaps closer to you. They can also help you with information on puppy selection and puppy care.
 | Australian Cattle Dog - This breed is also known as the Blue Heeler, Queensland Heeler, Hall's Heeler & the American Cattle Dog. These dogs herd livestock by nipping at their legs or “heels”. The versatile & fearless Australian Cattle Dog is the result of 6 decades of cross breeding. Some of the dogs that were bred to get this highly intelligent dog include the Red Bobtail, Scotland's Blue Merle Collie and the Dingo. Wary by nature, these dogs must be introduced to other animals and people early in their development. They are highly intelligent & very alert dogs. This breed weighs 35 to 45 lbs. & stands 17-20" at the shoulders. Contact the dog breeders below for your next family friend. Complete Australian Cattle Dog description. |
Welcome to cattle Dog
If you are a fan of the wonderful Australian Cattle Dog (aka Blue Heeler, Red Heeler or Queensland Heeler), 
researching breeds, or if you just bumped into us by accident..... come in and browse around a spell!!
The Australian Cattle Dog Web site has been in development since the VERY early days of the web. It was, in fact, one of the very first sites devoted to any breed of dog even available on the internet. These pages are a work in constant progress. We hope that you will visit us often to note the changes being made here.
I update this website as often as possible, but sometimes that isn't as often as some people would like. When I am exceptionally busy, my first devotion lies with updating the Rescue Pages and keeping the Breeders that help sponsor this web site happy.
The navigation bars at the left of your screen should assist you in finding your way around the ACD web site. If you are ever "lost", go to the sitemap and it will help you find the page(s) you are looking for! PLEASE be sure to read through the entire site before sending us questions! Part of the reason we have gone to the trouble of constructing and maintaining this site is to answer the questions that come up day-to-day with ACD owners or those considering adopting an ACD.
We welcome suggestions and will try to assist in any way necessary. You can use our handy feedback/question form if you would like to make comments on the site. There is a quicklink on almost every page leading to this form.....just click on the walking paws in the lower left hand corner!
The Australian Cattle Dog Web is pleased to announce an association with several different affiliate programs across the web. Please see the banners on the Affiliates Page for a listing of special banners and "coupon links".
We are now affiliated with Amazon.Com (books, etc), and The Sit Stay GoOut Store (training gear). All products purchased at these sites ONLY when "clicked through" from Cattledog.Com will generate a little bit of money for the continuation of the volumes of information here at this site.
Australian Cattle Dog Temperament
He is absolutely NOT an apartment dog. To stay in hard muscular condition and a satisfied frame of mind, Australian Cattle Dogs (also known as Queensland Heelers) require lots of exercise. Working livestock, agility, jogging, biking, chasing balls, and playing Frisbee are productive outlets for this breed's high energy. Cooping him up with nothing to do will lead to destructive behaviors and obsessive barking.
With strangers, the Cattle Dog is watchful and often suspicious. Early socialization is important so that he does not become too sharp.
He can be dominant and pushy with other dogs, and with his strong chasing drives and tendency to nip at whatever he is pursuing, he is not recommended around cats unless raised with them.
A challenging combination of cleverness and hard-headedness, Australian Cattle Dogs will test members of the family during adolescence and must be handled with firm, consistent leadership. These versatile dogs can learn and do a great deal in the right hands, but they will run right over hapless owners.
If you want a dog who...
- Is medium-sized, very sturdy, and natural-looking
- Thrives on vigorous exercise and athletic activities
- Makes a vigilant watchdog
- Has a short, easy-care coat that comes in striking colors
An Australian Cattle Dog may be right for you.
If you don't want to deal with...
- Vigorous exercise requirements
- Destructiveness when bored or not exercised enough
- Suspiciousness toward strangers
- Aggression toward other animals
- Strong-willed mind of his own, requiring a confident owner who can take charge
- Chasing and nipping at things that move: children, joggers, other animals, bikes, cars
- Potential for excessive barking, often in a high-pitched voice
- Heavy shedding
An Australian Cattle Dog may not be right for you.
If I were considering buying or adopting an Australian Cattle Dog
My major concerns would be:
- Providing enough exercise and mental stimulation. Australian Cattle Dogs MUST have regular opportunities to vent their energy and to use their busy minds to do interesting things. Otherwise they will become rambunctious and bored -- which they usually express by barking and destructive chewing. Bored Queensland Heelers are famous for chewing through drywall, ripping the stuffing out of sofas, and turning your yard into a moonscape of giant craters.
If you simply want a pet for your family, and don't have the time or inclination to take your dog running or hiking or biking or swimming, or to get involved in herding, or agility (obstacle course), or advanced obedience, or tracking, or a similar canine activity, I do not recommend this breed. Australian Cattle Dogs were never intended to be simply household pets. Their working behaviors (chasing, nipping, poking, barking, territorial instincts toward other animals) are inappropriate in a normal household setting. Trying to suppress these "hardwired" behaviors, without providing alternate outlets for their high energy level, can be difficult.
- Suspiciousness toward strangers. Some Australian Cattle Dogs have protective instincts toward strangers. They need extensive exposure to friendly people so they learn to recognize the normal behaviors of "good guys." Then they can recognize the difference when someone acts abnormally. Without careful socialization, they may be suspicious of everyone, which is a short step to aggression.
If you have small children, or if you or anyone who lives with you is elderly or infirm, I do not recommend Australian Cattle Dog puppies. The temptation to play roughly and nip at moving people is simply too strong in many young Queensland Heelers. - Animal aggression. Many Australian Cattle Dogs are dominant or aggressive toward other dogs of the same sex. Many have strong instincts to chase and seize cats and other fleeing creatures.
- The strong temperament. Australian Cattle Dogs are not Golden Retrievers. The best Cattle Dogs are versatile working dogs, capable of learning a great deal, but they have an independent mind of their own and are not pushovers to raise and train. They can be manipulative, and many are willful, obstinate, and dominant (they want to be the boss) and will make you prove that you can make them do things. You must show them, through absolute consistency, that you mean what you say.
To teach your Cattle Dog to listen to you, "Respect Training" is mandatory. My Australian Cattle Dog Training Page discusses the program you need. - Barking. Australian Cattle Dogs are often too quick to sound the alarm at every new sight and sound. You have to be equally quick to stop them. This breed should should not be left outside in your yard, unsupervised. To make matters worse, some Australian Cattle Dogs have intense, high-pitched barks that can set your teeth on edge.
- Shedding. For such a shorthaired dog, Australian Cattle Dogs shed much more than you might think. Their short coarse hairs come off on your hands when you pet them, and stick tenaciously to your clothing, upholstery, and carpeting.
To learn more about training Australian Cattle Dogs to be calm and well-behaved, consider my dog training book,Teach Your Dog 100 English Words.
It's a unique Vocabulary and Respect Training Program that will make your Australian Cattle Dog the smartest, most well-behaved companion you've ever had.
Teaches your dog to listen to you, to pay attention to you, and to do whatever you ask him to do.
My dog buying guide, How To Buy a Good Dog, will teach you everything you need to know about finding a healthy Australian Cattle Dog puppy. Health problems have become so widespread in dogs today that this book is required reading for ANYONE who is thinking of getting a purebred, crossbred, or mixed breed dog.If you'd like to consult with me personally about whether the Australian Cattle Dog might be a good dog breed for your family, I offer a Dog Breed Consulting Service.
Once you have your Australian Cattle Dog home, you need to KEEP him healthy -- or if he's having any current health problems, you need to get him back on the road to good health.My dog health care book, 11 Things You Must Do Right To Keep Your Dog Healthy and Happy is the book you need.
Raise your dog the right way and you will be helping him live a longer, healthier life while avoiding health problems and unnecessary veterinary expenses.
Please consider adopting an ADULT Australian Cattle Dog...
When you're acquiring an Australian Cattle Dog PUPPY, you're acquiring potential -- what he one day will be. So "typical breed characteristics" are very important.
But when you acquire an adult dog, you're acquiring what he already IS and you can decide whether he is the right dog for you based on that reality. There are plenty of adult Australian Cattle Dogs who have already proven themselves NOT to have negative characteristics that are "typical" for their breed. If you find such an adult dog, don't let "typical breed negatives" worry you. Just be happy that you found an atypical individual -- and enjoy!
Australian Cattle Dog
The Australian Cattle Dog (ACD) is a breed of herding dog originally developed in Australia for droving cattle over long distances across rough terrain. Today it is a versatile breed: a courageous and tireless worker, an intelligent and athletic companion and a loving and playful family pet.
The Australian Cattle Dog is a medium-sized short-coated dog which occurs in two main color forms. The dogs have either brown or black hair distributed fairly evenly through a white coat which gives the appearance of red or blue dogs. They have been nicknamed “Red Heelers” and “Blue Heelers” on the basis of this coloring and their practice of moving reluctant cattle by nipping at their heels. Dogs from a line bred in Queensland, Australia, which were successful at shows and at stud in the 1940s were called “Queensland Heelers” to differentiate them from lines bred in New South Wales and this nickname is now occasionally applied to any Australian Cattle Dog.
While there is a good deal of mythology surrounding the origins of breed, in recent years information technology that enables the manipulation of large databases, and advances in the understanding of canine genetics has allowed a clearer understanding of the Halls Heeler, its dispersal through eastern Australia, and its development into two modern breeds: the Australian Cattle Dog and the Australian Stumpy Tail Cattle Dog.
As with dogs from other working breeds, Australian Cattle Dogs have a good deal of energy, a quick intelligence and an independent streak. They respond well to structured training. They are not aggressive dogs, but they form a strong attachment with their owner and can be very protective of them and their possessions. They are easy dogs to groom and maintain. The most common health problems are deafness and progressive blindness, both hereditary conditions, and accidental injury, otherwise they are a robust breed with a lifespan of twelve to fourteen years. Australian Cattle Dogs participate in a range of activities from obedience, agility and herding competitions, to participating with their owners in hiking, flying disk, and endurance events, and working as therapy or assistance dogsCharacteristics
Appearance
Australian Cattle Dogs are sturdy, compact dogs that give the impression of agility and strength. They have a broad skull that flattens to a definite stop between the eyes, with muscular cheeks and a medium length, deep, powerful muzzle. The ears are pricked, small to medium in size and set wide apart, with a covering of hair on the inside. The eyes are oval and dark with an alert, keen expression. The neck and shoulders are strong and muscular; the forelegs are straight and parallel; and the feet round and strongly arched, with small toes and strong nails.[1]
They should have well-conditioned, hard muscles, even when bred for companion or show purposes. Ideally, their appearance is symmetrical and balanced with no individual part of the dog being exaggerated. They should not look either delicate or cumbersome as either characteristic limits agility and endurance which is necessary for a working dog.[1]
[edit] Size
Female Australian Cattle Dogs measure approximately 43 to 48 cm (15 to 17 inches) at the withers, and males measure about 46 to 51 cm (18 to 20 inches) at the withers. The dog should be 10% longer than tall, that is, the length of the body from breast bone to buttocks is greater than the height at the withers, as 10 is to 9. Australian Cattle Dogs in good condition weigh approximately 14 to 28 kg (30 to 35 pounds).[2]
[edit] Coat and colour
Australian Cattle Dogs exhibit two accepted coat colours: red and blue, though the miscolours of chocolate and cream do occur. Blue dogs can be blue, blue mottled or blue speckled with or without black, tan or white markings. Red dogs are evenly speckled with solid red markings. Both colours are born white (save for any solid colored body or face markings) and the red or black hairs grow in as they mature. The distinctive adult colouration is the result of black or red hairs closely interspersed through a predominantly white coat. This is not a roan or merle colouration, but rather the result of the ticking gene. A number of breeds show ticking, which is the presence of color in the white areas with the flecks of color being the same as the basic color of the dog, though the effect depends on other genes that will modify the size, shape and density of the ticking.[3]
In addition to the primary colouration, Australian Cattle Dogs also display some patches of solid or near-solid colour. In both red and blue dogs the most common markings are solid colour patches, or masks, over one or both eyes; a white tip to the tail; a solid spot at the base of the tail, and sometimes solid spots on the body, though these are not desirable in dogs bred for conformation shows. Blue dogs can have tan midway up the legs and extending up the front to breast and throat, with tan on jaws, and tan eyebrows.[1] Both colour forms can have a white 'star' on the forehead called the 'Bentley Mark' after a legendary dog owned by Tom Bentley.[4] Common miscolours in Australian Cattle Dogs include black hairs in a red-coated dog, including the extreme of a black saddle on a red dog; and extensive tan on the face and body on a blue dog, called creeping tan.[5]
The mask is one of the most distinctive features of ACDs. This mask consists of a black patch over one or both eyes (for the blue coat colour) or a red patch over one or both eyes (for the red coat colour). Depending on whether one eye or both have a patch, these are called, respectively, single (or 'half') mask and double (or 'full') mask. Dogs without a mask are called plain-faced. Any of these are correct according to the breed standard, and the only limitation is the owner's preference. In conformation shows, even markings are preferred over uneven markings.[1]
Australian Cattle Dogs have a double coat: the short, straight outer 'guard hairs' are protective in nature, keeping the elements from the dog's skin while the undercoat is short, fine and dense. They are not year round shedders but blow their coats once a year (twice in the case of intact females) and frequent brushing and several warm baths during this period are desirable. Otherwise they are 'wash and wear' dogs and even for the show ring require little more than a wipe down with a moist chamois cloth.[4]
[edit] Tail
The breed standard of the Australian, American and Canadian Kennel clubs specify that Australian Cattle Dogs should have a natural, long, un-docked tail. It should be set moderately low, following the slope of the back. The tail at rest should hang in a slight curve, though an excited dog may carry its tail higher. The tail should feature a reasonable level of brush.[1]
In the USA, tails are sometimes docked on working stock. They have never been docked in Australia as the tail serves useful purpose in increasing agility and the ability to turn quickly. Australian Cattle Dogs should not be confused with Australian Stumpy Tail Cattle Dogs, a square-bodied dog born with a naturally "bobbed" tail. The Stumpy Tail resembles the Australian Cattle Dog, but has a taller, leaner conformation. Where these dogs have a natural tail, it is long and thin, but most are born without tails.
[edit] Temperament
Like many working dogs, Australian Cattle Dogs have high energy levels and active minds. The breed ranks 10th in Stanley Coren's The Intelligence of Dogs, rated as one of the most intelligent dogs ranked by obedience command trainability. Cattle Dogs need plenty of exercise, companionship and a job to do, so non-working dogs need to participate in dog sports, learning tricks, or other activities that engage their body and mind.
When on home ground, Australian Cattle Dogs are happy, affectionate, and playful pets.[6] However, they are reserved with strangers and naturally cautious in new situations. Their attitude to strangers makes them perfect guard dogs, when trained for this task, and family pets can be socialized to become accustomed to a variety of people from an early age. They are good with older, considerate children, but are known to herd people by nipping at their heels, particularly younger children who run and squeal.[7] By the time puppies are weaned, they should have learned that the company of people is pleasurable, and that responding to cues from a person is rewarding, bringing a friendly voice, a pat, an interesting activity, or food.[8] The bond that this breed can create with its owner is very strong and will leave the dog feeling very protective towards the owner; typically resulting in the dog's never being too far from the owner's side. Aggression in Australian Cattle Dogs is more likely to be directed at strangers than owners or dogs.[9]
To relieve the urge to nip, the dogs can be encouraged to pick up and chew a toy or carry objects such as a ball or a basket, and they can be taught bite control from an early age. They are ‘mouthy’ dogs that will use their mouths to attract attention, or to occupy themselves. Any toy left with them needs to be extremely robust if it is to last.
While Australian Cattle Dogs generally work silently, they will bark in alarm or to attract attention. They have a distinctive intense, high-pitched bark which can be particularly irritating. Barking can be a sign of boredom or frustration; however research shows that pet dogs increase their vocalization when raised in a noisy environment.[10]
Australian Cattle Dogs respond well to familiar dogs, however the establishing of a pecking order in a multi-dog household can result in a few scuffles. If a Cattle Dog is put in any situation where it feels threatened or challenged, it can respond with aggressiveness towards other dogs.
[edit] Health and lifespan
[edit] Lifespan
In a very small sample of 11 deceased dogs, Australian Cattle Dogs had a median longevity of 11.7 years (maximum 15.9 yrs).[11] The median longevities of breeds of similar size are between 11 and 13 years.[12] There is an anecdotal report of a Cattle Dog named Bluey, born in 1910 and living for 29.5 years, but the record is unverified.[13] Lifespan varies from dog to dog, however Australian Cattle Dogs generally age well, with many members of the breed well and active at 12 or 14 years of age, and some maintaining their sight, hearing and even their teeth until their final days.[14]
[edit] Common health problems
Australian Cattle Dogs carry recessive piebald alleles that produce white in the coat and skin and are linked to congenital hereditary deafness, though it is possible that there is a multi-gene cause for deafness in dogs with the piebald pigment genes.[15]. Around 2.4% of ACDs in one study were found to be deaf in both ears and 14.5% were deaf in at least one ear.[16]
The Australian Cattle Dog is one of the dog breeds affected by progressive retinal atrophy. They have the most common form, Progressive Rod/Cone Degeneration (PRCD), which causes the rods and cones in the retina of the eye to deteriorate later in life, and the dog becomes blind. PRCD is an autosomal recessive trait and a dog can be a carrier of the affected gene without developing the condition.[17] The gene mutation has been mapped to canine chromosome 9 and the mutation can be identified, if present, through DNA testing. It is thought that the incidence of carrier dogs could be as high as 50%.[18]
Hip dysplasia is not common in the breed,[14] though it occurs sufficiently often for many breeders to test their breeding stock. They are known to have a number of inherited conditions,[19] but most of these are not common. Based on a sample of 69 still-living dogs, the most common health issues noted by owners were musculoskeletal (spondylosis, elbow dysplasia, and arthritis) and reproductive (pyometra, infertility, and false pregnancy), and blindness.[11] A study of dogs presenting at Veterinary Colleges in the USA and Canada over a thirty-year period described fractures, lameness and cruciate ligament tears as the most common conditions in the ACDs treated.[20]
[edit] Activities
Australian Cattle Dogs demand a high level of physical activity. Like many other herding dog breeds, they have active and fertile minds and if they are not given jobs to do they will find their own activities – which might not please the owner. They will appreciate a walk around the neighbourhood, but they also need structured activities that engage and challenge them, and regular interaction with their owner. While individual dogs have their own personalities and abilities, as a breed Australian Cattle Dogs are suited to any activity that calls for athleticism, intelligence and endurance.
Kennel Club sponsored herding trials with a range of events suit the driving abilities of the Cattle Dog and other upright breeds, while sheepdog trials are more suited to the ‘eye’ breeds such as the Border Collie and Kelpie. Australian Cattle Dogs were developed for their ability to encourage reluctant cattle to travel long distances, and may be the best breed in the world for this work.[8] However, some working dog trainers have expressed concern that dogs bred for the show ring are increasingly too short in the legs and too stocky in the body to undertake the work for which they were originally bred.[8] Non-competitive herding tests organised by kennel clubs assess a dog's instinct for and interest in herding,[21] and cattle dogs also enjoy herding games, where rules such as 'stay', 'get it' and 'that'll do' are applied to fetching a ball or chasing a yard broom.
Among the most popular activities for Australian Cattle Dogs is dog agility. They are ideally suited for agility, since as herding dogs they are reactive to the handler's body language and willing to work accurately at a distance from the handler. Agility has been used by owners with dogs that have become bored with other forms of dog training, as a means of instilling confidence in their dogs, enhancing their performance in breed or obedience competition or making their dogs more biddable pets.[22] Australian Cattle Dogs thrive on change and new experiences, and for this reason, many handlers find training them to be challenging.
Where training is made rewarding Australian Cattle Dogs can excel in obedience competition. They enjoy the challenges, such as retrieving a scented article, but their problem solving ability may lead them to find solutions to the problem at hand that are not necessarily rewarded by the obedience judges. Cattle Dogs have reportedly left the ring to share a spectator's hot dog, or retrieve a bag of donuts.[2] Many find more success with rally obedience which offers more interaction with the owner and less repetition than traditional obedience trials.
Australian Cattle Dogs have been successful in a range of dog sports including weight pulling, flyball and schutzhund. They are particularly suited to activities that they can share with their owner such as canicross, disc dog, and skijoring or bikejoring. Hikers could not ask for a better companion, as the Australian Cattle Dog will enjoy the trails as much as its human companion and will not wander off; few of them are interested in hunting and they prefer to stay by their owner's side.[2] Most ACDs also love the water and are excellent swimmers. [14] They are not hyperactive dogs, and once they have had their exercise they are happy to lie at their owner's feet, or to rest in their beds or crates while keeping an ear and eye open for signs of pending activity. They are adaptable dogs that can live well under city or indoor conditions, if their exercise and companionship needs are met.[23]
Australian Cattle Dogs can also be put to work in a number of ways; many are service dogs for people with a disability or are therapy dogs, some work for customs agencies in drug detection, some as police dogs, and others herd pest animals from geese to muskox for city or state agencies.[2]
[edit] History
[edit] In Australia
George Hall and his family arrived in the New South Wales Colony in 1802. By 1825, the Halls had established two cattle stations in the Upper Hunter Valley, and had begun a northward expansion into the Liverpool Plains, New England and Queensland. Getting his cattle to the Sydney markets presented a problem in that thousands of head of cattle had to be moved for thousands of kilometres along unfenced stock routes through sometimes rugged bush and mountain ranges. A note, in his own writing, records Thomas Hall's anger at losing 200 head in scrub.[24]
A droving dog was desperately needed but the colonial working dogs are understood to have been of Old English Sheepdog type (commonly referred to as Smithfields, descendants of these dogs still exist) useful only over short distances and for yard work with domesticated cattle. Thomas Hall addressed the problem by importing several of the dogs used by drovers in Northumberland, his parents’ home county. At this time dogs were generally described by their job, regardless of whether they constituted a ‘breed’ as it is currently understood. In the manner of the time, the Hall family historian, A. J. Howard, gave these blue mottled dogs a name: Northumberland Blue Merle Drovers Dog.[24]
Thomas Hall crossed his Drovers Dogs with dingoes he had tamed and by 1840 was satisfied with his resultant breed. During the next thirty years, the Halls Heelers, as they became known, were used only by the Halls. Given that they were dependent on the dogs, which gave them an advantage over other cattle breeders, it is understandable that the dogs were not distributed beyond the Hall's properties. It was not until after Thomas Hall's death in 1870, when the properties went to auction with the stock on them that Halls Heelers became freely available.[24]
By the 1890s, the dogs, known simply as Cattle Dogs, had attracted the attention of several Sydney dog breeders with interests in the show ring, of whom the Bagust family was the most influential. Robert Kaleski, of Moorebank, a young associate of Harry Bagust, wrote “in 1893 when I got rid of my cross-bred cattle dogs and took up the blues, breeders of the latter had started breeding ... to fix the type. I drew up a standard for them on those lines”.[25] This first Breed standard for the Cattle Dog breed was published, with photographs, by the New South Wales Department of Agriculture in 1903.[26]
Kaleski's Standard was taken up by breed clubs in Queensland and New South Wales and re-issued as their own, with local changes. His writings from the 1910s give an important insight into the early history of the breed. However dog breeder and author Noreen Clark has noted that his opinions are sometimes just that, and in his later writings he introduces some contradictory assertions, and some assumptions which are illogical in the light of modern science.[24] Unfortunately some of these have persisted as ‘truths’. For example he saw the red Cattle Dog as having more dingo in it than the blue colour form, and there is a persistent belief that reds are more vicious than blues. The most enduring of Kaleski's myths relate to Dalmatian and Kelpie infusions into the early Cattle Dog breed. These infusions are not referred to in Kaleski's writings until the 1920s and it seems likely that Kaleski sought to explain the Cattle Dog's mottled colouration and tan on legs by similarity to the Dalmatian and Kelpie, respectively.[24] The genetics of coat colour, and the current understanding of hereditary characteristics, make the infusion of Dalmatian to increase the cattle dog's tolerance of horses an extremely unlikely event. There were relatively few motor vehicles in Australia at the beginning of the 20th century, so most dogs of any breed would have been accustomed to horses.[24] The Kelpie breed was developed after the Cattle Dog type was described, so its infusion is also unlikely.[24] It is possible that there was some infusion of Bull Terrier but there is no verifiable record of this, and the Cattle Dog has not had the Bull Terrier's instinct to bite and hold, which would have been an undesirable trait.[24]
Through the 1890s, Cattle Dogs of Halls Heeler derivations were seen in the kennels of exhibiting Queensland dog breeders such as William Byrne of Booval, and these were a different population from those shown in New South Wales. When Royal Shows began again after World War II, Sydney exhibitors saw Little Logic offspring for the first time and these dogs and their sires' show record created a demand in New South Wales for Little Logic's lineage. By the end of the 1950s, there were few Australian Cattle Dogs whelped that were not descendants of Little Logic or his best known son, Logic Return. The success and popularity of these dogs led to the growth of the nickname “Queensland Heeler”.[24]
The prominence of Little Logic and Logic Return in the pedigrees of modern Australian Cattle Dogs was perpetuated by Wooleston Kennels. For some twenty years, Wooleston supplied foundation and supplementary breeding stock to breeders in Australia, North America and Continental Europe. As a result, Wooleston Blue Jack is ancestral to most, if not all, Australian Cattle Dogs whelped since 1990 in any country.[24]
[edit] In the USA
In the 1940s Dr. Alan McNiven, a Sydney veterinarian, introduced Dingo, Kelpie, German Shepherd, and Kangaroo Hound into his breeding program; however the Royal Agricultural Society Kennel Club would not register the cross breeds as Australian Cattle Dogs, even though McNiven argued they were true to conformation, colour and temperament. McNiven responded by putting “dead papers” on his pups and was consequently expelled from the RASKC and all of his dogs removed from the registry. Meanwhile, Greg Lougher, a Napa, California cattle rancher who met Alan McNiven while stationed in Australia during the War, had imported several adults and several litters from McNiven. After his de-registration McNiven continued to export his ‘improved’ dogs to the USA.[27]
In the late 1950s a veterinarian in Santa Rosa, California, Jack Woolsey, was introduced to Lougher’s dogs. With his partners, he bought several dogs and started breeding them. The breeders advertised the dogs in Western Horsemen stating they were guaranteed to work and calling them Queensland Heelers. Woolsey imported several pure-bred Australian Cattle Dogs to add to his breeding program; Oaklea Blue Ace, Glen Iris Boomerang and several Glen Iris bitches were imported from Australia. The National Stock Dog Registry of Butler, Indiana, registered the breed, assigning American numbers without reference to Australian registrations.[27]
Australian Cattle Dogs had been in the Miscellaneous classification at the American Kennel Club since the 1930s, but in order to get the breed full AKC Championship recognition, the AKC required that a National Breed Parent Club be organized for promotion and protection of the breed.[27]
In 1967 Esther Ekman met Chris Smith-Risk at an AKC show, and the two fell into conversation about their Australian Cattle Dogs and the process of establishing a parent club for the breed. By 1969 the fledgling club had 12 members and formally applied to the AKC for instructions. One of the requirements was that the Club had to start keeping its own registry for the breed and that all dogs on the registry would have to be an extension of the Australian registry, tracing back to registered dogs in Australia.[27]
The AKC Parent Club members began researching their dogs, including exchanging correspondence with McNiven, and discovered that few of them had dogs that could be traced back to dogs registered in Australia. The AKC took over the club registry in 1979 and the breed was fully recognized in Sept. 1980. The Australian Cattle Dog Club of America is still a vital force in the promotion of the breed and the maintenance of breed standards.[27]
The National Stock Dog Registry continued to recognise Cattle Dogs without prerequisite links to Australian registered dogs, on the condition that any dog of unknown parentage that was presented for registry, would be registered as an "American Cattle Dog" and all others would still be registered as "Australian Cattle Dogs."[27]
[edit] In the UK
The first registered Australian Cattle Dogs to arrive in the United Kingdom were two blue puppies, Lenthal Flinton and Lenthal Darlot, followed in 1980 by Aust Ch Landmaster Darling Red in whelp. Landmaster Darling Red was imported by John and Mary Holmes, and proved to be an outstanding brood bitch. Over the next few years further Cattle Dogs arrived in the UK from Holland, Kenya, Germany and Australia, however prior to relaxation of rules regarding artificial insemination, the UK gene pool was very limited. In 1985 an ACD Society was formed and officially recognised by the Kennel Club. Before this they had to compete in the category "Any Variety Not Separately Classified". ACDs were also competing successfully in Obedience and Working Trials in the UK during the 1980s.[2]
[edit] Famous Dogs
[edit] In popular culture
Australian Cattle Dogs have been featured in a number of movies, appearing alongside Mel Gibson in Mad Max 2, Johnny Depp in Secret Window, Tom Berenger in Last of the Dogmen, Billy Connolly in The Man Who Sued God, and Alex O'Loughlin in Oyster Farmer. Australian Cattle Dogs also feature prominently in The Blob and Welcome to Woop Woop. In Babe, they are used by the men who attempt to steal sheep from Babe's owners, and they also are used to herd sheep by the main characters in Brokeback Mountain. Additionally, Australian Cattle Dogs appear in the three Fallout videogames; once as a companion to the Vault Dweller in the original Fallout and the Chosen One in Fallout 2, and once as companion to the Lone Wanderer in Fallout 3.
[edit] Celebrity owners
Celebrities who have owned an Australian Cattle Dog include Scott Cam,[28] Ken Done,[29] and Simmone Jade Mackinnon in Australia,[30] and Matthew McConaughey, Steve Earle, George Strait, Owen Wilson, Kelly McGillis and Mark Harmon in the United States.[23]
[edit] In the news
Sophie Tucker, an Australian Cattle Dog from Queensland made international headlines when, after falling from her family's yacht, she swam five kilometres through shark infested waters and lived on a deserted island for five months before being reunited with her owners. RSPCA vet Vicki Lomax believes Sophie Tucker's breed and her level of fitness had no doubt contributed to her survival, saying "Cattle dogs are probably the most suited type of dog to survive something like this, but it would have been a major ordeal for her."[31]
Ben, an Australian cattle Dog from Adelaide, was the primary witness involved in gaining a conviction in the murder of his owners, Karen Molloy and Jeremy Torrens. When the major crime detectives declared themselves baffled, neighbours reported surprise that Ben, who was known to be very protective of the property, had not raised the alarm. Ben was missing, and when he was found days later, ten kilometres away, detectives told the media that he might hold the key to the mystery. His acceptance of the intruder led police to suspect Karen's son Dennis Molloy, and an investigation of the suspect's vehicle, clothes, and home uncovered around four hundred stray hairs (usually forensic scientists have fewer than four hairs to work with). Dennis Molloy had owned the car for only two weeks, and declared that he had not visited his mother's house in that time. However the hairs were identified as the distinctive multi-toned hairs of a cattle dog; there were individual black, white and tan hairs and hairs that were banded black/white and black/white/tan. The forensic investigation continued for some months and determined that the hairs on Dennis Molloy's car and sweatshirt were the result of a 'primary transfer' from Ben. With the suspect's denial, the absence of witnesses and the lack of crime-scene evidence, it was the distinctive hair of a cattle dog that ultimately linked Dennis Molloy to the crime.[32]
Blue, an Australian Cattle Dog from Fort Meyers, Florida, stood guard beside Ruth Gay, his 83-year-old owner who had fallen and injured herself. As she lay beside a canal, Blue launched repeated attacks against an alligator, receiving around thirty lacerations consistent with alligator bites. When the rest of the family retured home at 10:00pm, Blue met the car and led them to where Ruth lay.[33] Blue was awarded for his heroism, which was no surprise to those who know the breed. Tasmanian breeder Narelle Hammond-Robertson said "It wouldn't have mattered if the alligator had been an elephant, these dogs will protect their masters, win, lose or draw."[34]
Another Blue, described in press reports as a Queensland Heeler, is credited by the Yavapai County, Arizona Sheriff's Office with keeping a little girl safe after she spent the overnight hours in 30-degree temperatures near Cordes Lakes, 36 miles east of Prescott. She was rescued with the dog on February 19, 2010. The ranger who located the girl and her dog said, "The dog which had protected the girl all night seemed to know help had arrived. You could see the dog's expression almost turn to a smile. It came right to the helicopter and jumped right in, no problems at all."[35]
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